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Recently reviewed restaurants:

San & Bada Sushi Bar, 1800 Western Ave. (Cosimo’s Plaza), Guilderland, 456-2111. Japanese fare—including a splendid sushi bar—and a selection of Korean dishes (such as a mean bulgogi) served in a small, bustling corner. Serving lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner Mon-Thu 4:30-9, Fri 4:30-10, Sat 4-10, Sun 4-9. MC, V.

Villa Valenti, 369 West Sand Lake Road, Wynantskill, 283-1291. A classic Italian restaurant in its third generation of ownership, with fresh pasta and amazing braciole among the entrées, as well as excellent seafood dishes. Serving dinner Tue-Sat 4-10, Sun 3-9. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

The Century House, 997 Route 9, Latham, 785-0931. Chef Kevin Conway has spruced up a traditional continental menu with excellent seafood, and the recent refurbishment makes the dining room warm and very accommodating. Serving lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, dinner Mon-Sun 5-9. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Holmes and Watson, 450 Broadway, Troy, 273-8526. A classic English pub with a terrific beer variety and a good pub menu where the burger is king and fish and chips are like downtown London. Serving Mon-Sat 11-10. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Barcelona Restaurant, 1192 Western Ave., Albany, 438-1144. Spanish and other Mediterranean fare served in a warm, accommodating dining room. Make sure to try the paella, available with seafood, chicken, or vegetarian style. Serving dinner Mon-Thu 4-10, Fri-Sat 4-11, Sun 4-9. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Lillian’s Restaurant, 408 Broadway, Saratoga Springs, 587-7766. A downtown stalwart that still serves great steaks along with a full menu of seafood and pasta dishes, in a setting of Victorian charm. Serving lunch Mon-Sat 11:30-4, dinner Mon-Thu 5-10, Fri-Sat 5-11, lunch and dinner Sun noon-9. AE, DC, MC, V.

The Orchard Tavern & Restaurant, 68 N. Manning Blvd., Albany, 482-5677. A century-old stalwart with a menu featuring burgers, wings, sandwiches, specials, ribs and steak at dinnertime, and, of course, the famous Orchard pizza. Serving Mon-Thu 11:30-10, Fri-Sat 11:30-11, Sun 4-9. AE, D, MC, V.

Koto Japanese Restaurant, 260 Wolf Road, Colonie, 869-8888. Watch your steak hit the grill and see vegetables chopped at blinding speed at the teppanyaki tables, or enjoy good sushi, tempura or teriyaki dishes at the quieter tables in this handsome restaurant. Serving Mon-Thu 11:30-10, Fri-Sat 11:30-11, Sun 4:30-10. AE, D, MC, V.


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