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Recently reviewed restaurants:

Brunoís, 237 Union Ave., Saratoga Springs, 583-3333. The venerable home of wood-fired pizza has reopened with streamlined decor, a pared-down menu, but the same great pizza along with sandwiches, wings, and some Italian-inspired fare. Serving Sun-Wed 5-9, Thu-Sat 5-10 (and later daily as warranted). AE, D, MC, V.

Miyako Japanese Steak House, 2027 Western Ave., Guilderland, 452-1445. It used to be on Allen Street; now itís near Route 155. Hibachi tables in one room, sushi and traditional Japanese fare in another, including wonderful noodle soup. Serving lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, dinner Sun-Thu 4-10, Fri-Sat 4-11. AE, D, MC, V

The Black Cat Ale House, 25 White St., Cohoes, 235-3199. Superior pub food, all of it homemade, served in a welcoming atmosphere. Steaks, burgers and sandwiches are great; grab the fish and chips when itís offered. Serving daily 11:30-10. AE, D, MC, V.

The Olde Shaker Inn, 1171 Troy-Schenectady Road (Route 7), Latham, 783-6460, An area favorite with an innovative continental menu. Seafood is outstanding, and the combination of bold flavors and exotic ingredients keeps the palate happy. Serving lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-3, dinner Mon-Thu 5-9:30, Fri-Sat 5-10, Sun 4-9. Sunday brunch 10-2. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Peaches Cafť, Stuyvesant Plaza, Albany, 482-3677. Ice cream and cakes, for sure, but itís also a much-loved breakfast stop (the Belgian waffles are towering) and a good place for tasty sandwiches and terrific burgers. Serving Mon-Thu 8 AM-9 PM, Fri-Sat 8 AM-9:30 PM, Sun 8-7. AE, CB, D, DC, MC, V.

Avenue A, 289 New Scotland Ave., Albany, 320-8684. The menu ranges from Asian-inspired items like chap chae (a Korean beef and noodle stew) and bulgokee to down-home fare like meatloaf; many appetizers and a selection of panini and other sandwiches provide lighter options, served in a bright, comfortable, welcoming tavern. Serving Mon-Wed 3-10, Thu-Fri 3-midnight, Sat noon- midnight, Sun 11-5 (brunch 11-3). AE, D, MC, V.

Millstone Lodge, 654 Saratoga Read, Burnt Hills, 384-3812. Solid continental fare cooked from scratch and served in a handsome Adirondack-style lodge, with talented chef-owner Cory Masten presiding. Serving lunch & dinner Tue-Thu 11-9:30, Fri-Sat 11-10, Sun 10-8:30. AE, DC, MC, V.

Al-Baraki, 184 River St., Troy, 270-9404. Delicious Lebanese fare for the budget minded, with many explosions of garlic to keep the palate happy. Serving Mon-Sat 10:30-8. AE, D, MC, V.

Ali Baba, 2243 15th St., Troy, 273-1170. Enjoy a real gyro, terrific shish kebab, and curried chicken pizza at this popular Turkish restaurant. Serving Mon-Thu 11-11, Fri-Sat 11-midnight. AE, MC. V.

Marmora Cafť, 203 River St., Troy, 266-9300. Traditional or exotic lunch in a handsome surrounding, with Egyptian specials and tasty baklava. Serving Tue-Sat 8-5. D, MC, V.

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