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Recently reviewed restaurants:

Park 54, 54 Clifton Country Road, Clifton Park, 688-1548. Chef Mike Pietrocola is back in business, offering elegant new American fare at this newly remodeled location. The potato-wrapped sea bass is a killer. Serving dinner Tue-Sun from 4:30. AE, D, MC, V.

La Familia, 54 Philip St. (at Madison Avenue), Albany, 462-2190. An unassuming eatery with terrific Oaxacan food, along with burgers and such as gringo fare. Try the enchiladas rojas for its great mole sauce. Serving Sun-Thu 11-9:30, Fri 11-7. Closed Saturday! MC, V.

Mino: Sushi & Thai Restaurant, 1558 Central Ave., Colonie, 452-6878. Watch virtuoso sushi chef Mino at work slicing and presenting your fresh fish, or try one of the amazing curries or other Thai dishes. Serving lunch daily 11:30-2:30, dinner Sun-Thu 5-10, Fri-Sat 5-10:30. AE, MC, V.

Jackís Oyster House, 42 State St., Albany, 465-8854. Certified master chef Dale Miller oversees a menu of classic fare and his own inspiration at downtown Albanyís most famous restaurantóstill going strong after 93 years. Serving daily 11:30-10. AE, DC, D, MC, V.

The Barnsider, 480 Sand Creek Road, Colonie, 869-2448. A 40-year-old success presenting matchless, home-butchered steaks as well as seafood and other meatstuffs, and a big, bustling salad bar to boot. Serving dinner Mon-Thu 4-10, Fri-Sat 4-10:30, Sun 4-9. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Brunoís, 237 Union Ave., Saratoga Springs, 583-3333. The venerable home of wood-fired pizza has reopened with streamlined decor, a pared-down menu, but the same great pizza along with sandwiches, wings, and some Italian-inspired fare. Serving Sun-Wed 5-9, Thu-Sat 5-10 (and later daily as warranted). AE, D, MC, V.

Miyako Japanese Steak House, 2027 Western Ave., Guilderland, 452-1445. It used to be on Allen Street; now itís near Route 155. Hibachi tables in one room, sushi and traditional Japanese fare in another, including wonderful noodle soup. Serving lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, dinner Sun-Thu 4-10, Fri-Sat 4-11. AE, D, MC, V

The Black Cat Ale House, 25 White St., Cohoes, 235-3199. Superior pub food, all of it homemade, served in a welcoming atmosphere. Steaks, burgers and sandwiches are great; grab the fish and chips when itís offered. Serving daily 11:30-10. AE, D, MC, V.

The Olde Shaker Inn, 1171 Troy Schenectady Road (Route 7), Latham, 783-6460, An area favorite with an innovative continental menu. Seafood is outstanding, and the combination of bold flavors and exotic ingredients keeps the palate happy. Serving lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-3, dinner Mon-Thu 5-9:30, Fri-Sat 5-10, Sun 4-9. Sunday brunch 10-2. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Peaches Cafť, Stuyvesant Plaza, Albany, 482-3677. Ice cream and cakes, for sure, but itís also a much-loved breakfast stop (the Belgian waffles are towering) and a good place for tasty sandwiches and terrific burgers. Serving Mon-Thu 8 AM-9 PM, Fri-Sat 8 AM-9:30 PM, Sun 8-7. AE, CB, D, DC, MC, V.

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