Arrow Lakeside Resort, 150 Main St., Lake Placid, 523-9886.
Serving breakfast daily 6:30-11:30, lunch daily noon-2:30,
dinner daily 5-10, light menu also available. AE, D, MC, V.
locally themed continental
price range: $12 (Black Angus burger) to $33 (12 oz.
Holdereid wants to see Lake Placid emerge as a leader in offering
environmentally responsible accommodations and amenities.
Charlie Levitz has designed a menu for his eponymous restaurant
that sources as much food locally as is possible.
They’re setting good examples in a receptive place: With its
Olympics-hosting history, Lake Placid attracts health-and-fitness
buffs who stay to train, compete in various local events or
just hang out with like-minded people. It doesn’t seem a far-fetched
step to expand one’s fitness awareness from within to without.
Holdereid is part of the family that has run the Golden Arrow
Lakeside Resort since 1974, and has helped usher its expansion
into the age of climate change, working to lessen the resort’s
footprint even as it accommodates guests as comfortably as
So it was fortuitous that the latest round of improvements
included a complete refurbishment of the adjacent restaurant,
allowing Levitz to work his culinary magic here. Comfort is
as much a key as flavor, which is why our look at the place
should start at T-Bar (local naming conventions tend to promote
sporting images), the handsome bar just inside the main entrance
to the restaurant. The bar itself—the place where you’ll rest
your elbows as conversation with your neighbor grows more
engrossing—glows with a soft amber light, its warmth picked
up by the overhead fixtures.
Drink creations were overseen by Tony Abou-Ganim, one of the
country’s top mixologists, an intimidating enough pedigree
to persuade me to down a delicious, raspberry-infused mojito
A large dining room opens from the bar; another, more window-intensive
area sits beyond. The rooms are airy and comfortable, and
if you want still more air there’s an outdoor deck.
A new menu offers a dozen appetizers and 16 entrées, a comfortable
amount. Add to that a handful of light-fare items as well
as a low-priced ($4 to $10) kids’ menu and decisions should
be no problem.
My kid eschewed hot dogs and chicken tenders in favor of marinated
grilled quail as a starter ($9.50). It’s nevertheless a great
kid’s dish, requiring any serious diner to put aside cutlery
and tackle the little joints by hand. With lemon juice and
olive oil the easygoing accompaniments, and bed of lively
greens to round out the plate, it’s a perfect appetite-whetter.
You can start with a stand-alone salad ($10), but it comes
with a slice of blue-cheese cheesecake and grapefruit and
orange slices. I opted for a more extensive array of cheese
and fruit, with an amazing serving of Quebec-sourced triple-cream
brie the centerpiece, flanked by an herb-aged cheddar and
a pungent Morbier, the latter layered with ash (it’s now vegetable-sourced)
to recall the time when two different milkings provided the
Crab cakes, clams, shrimp and soups are familiar favorites;
not so familiar is a presentation of roasted leeks ($8.50)
with prosciutto and mozzarella setting off the caramelized
If the handsome look of the appetizer plates was a harbinger,
the entrées delivered in spades. Each was a joy to behold,
balanced in color and composition. And what flavors!
The pan-seared scallops ($26) are like outsized mushrooms:
puffy, fluffy, and gently browned. More citrus here, in the
beurre blanc that lightly accompanies it, along with an
arugula salad and sliced, marinated pears.
Marinades abound. The duck breast ($26) gets it, infusing
some herbs before the sautéed meat is served with a cranberry
jus; the venison loin ($26) tastes like it gets it,
but I think it’s the sweetness of the tangerine-roasted jalapeño
reduction that gives it the extra tang.
Most of the entrées got sides of vegetables—baby asparagus
when I visited—and starch, which included simple, superb mashed
potatoes or a pilaf of white and wild rice.
The ravioli ($18), which changes regularly, arrives on its
own; the serving of wild mushroom-and-ricotta-stuffed pasta
was topped simply with chopped fresh tomatoes seasoned with
lots of tasty basil.
Seafood entrées include pan-seared trout ($22) and grilled
salmon ($21); rib eye, strip and flatiron steaks are available
($23-$33) and you can even content yourself with a $12 burger,
although it’s a half-pound of grass-fed beef, unlike any burger
you’ve recently had. And keep in mind that entrées include
a soup or salad.
All of the meat and poultry here is certified organic, and
this is the time of year when the produce will come from nearby.
Breakfast features egg dishes, French toast, buttermilk pancakes
and even grilled fresh trout, all priced from $5 to $11; lots
of grilled items for lunch, along with salads and sandwiches
($6 to $11). You might also want to go down the street to
Chair 6, Levitz’s first Lake Placid eatery. It’s a small,
deli-like operation with a handful of tables and an amazing
plate of sweet potato pancakes among the breakfast fare.
Levitz is an Albany native who ran Creative Catering in this
area before heading north to operate several Lake Placid-area
facilities, including the Interlaken Inn and the Black Bear
Restaurant. He notes without a trace of phony sentimentality
that the key to his cooking is “putting love on the plate,”
and its presence can’t be disputed.
It certainly informs the morale of the service staff, who
speak excitedly about menu items (and, I was told, are given
regular sessions to familiarize themselves with the food)
and tend the tables with easygoing diligence.
Fine dining hasn’t always been a Lake Placid phenomenon, but
it’s evident more and more—and Charlie’s has raised the bar
(or T-bar, if you will) to a welcome height.
here for a list of recently reviewed restaurants.
scraps: Bastille Day approaches, and there’s nowhere
better to celebrate than at Nicole’s Bistro (Quackenbush
House, Clinton Avenue and Broadway, Albany). Chef
Daniel E. Smith and owner Nicole Plisson present
a menu of French classics on Sat., July 14, with
choices including vichyssoise, escargot a l’ancienne,
grenouilles Provençale, gigot d’agneau and
mousse au chocolat—and much more, along
with an evening of jazz and international cabaret
songs with Sonny & Perley. Dinner is $50,
not including tax and tip, and you can reserve
seats by calling the restaurant at 465-1111. .
. . Tomorrow (Friday) night is Hell Night at New
World Home Cooking Co. (Route 212, Saugerties),
with a wine pairing to set off the hottest of
spicy fare. Actually, most of the food is only
moderately spiced, but you’re given the tools
to wreak havoc upon your palate—and the wine to
cool it down. Start with a Cambodian chili duck
salad and an Australian shiraz, then try the Mexican
five-chile streaked fondue with shrimp and mushrooms
alongside the St. Chapelle Sparkling Riesling
from Idaho. There’s much more, including a triple-chile
sundae for dessert. Six courses for $60; the event
starts at 7 PM. Call (845) 246-0900 for info and
reservations. . . . Remember to pass your scraps
to Metroland (e-mail food at banilsson.com).
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very much enjoyed eating dinner at Daniel's
at Ogdens. You review described my dining
experience perfectly. This wasn't the case
with Pancho's. I much prefer Garcia's or
Lake View Tavern for Mexican fare. I agree
that a restaurant can have an off night
so I'll give the second unit on Central
Avenue a try.
yes I miss the star ratings, bring it back.
Second, I haven't had a chance to visit
Poncho's yet, but I especially like reading
would travel to Amsterdam to this restaurant
- it's not that far away. People traveled
from all over to eat at Ferrandi's in Amsterdam.
From his background, I'm sure the chef's
sauce is excellent and that is the most
important aspect of an Italian restaurant.
Sometimes your reviewer wastes words on
the negative aspects of a restaurant. I'm
looking forward to trying this restaurant
- I look forward to Metroland every Thursday
especially for the restaurant review. And
by the way Ferrandi's closed its Amsterdam
location and is opening a new bistro on
Saratoga Lake - Should be up and running
in May. It will be called Saratoga Lake
Bistro. It should be great!
comments about the Indian / Pakistani restaurants
being as "standardized as McDonald's"
shows either that you have eaten at only
a few Indian / Pakistani restaurants or
that you have some prejudices to work out.
That the physical appearances are not what
you would consider fancy dancy has no bearing
on the food. And after all, that is what
the main focus of the reviews should be.
Not the physical appearances, which is what
most of your reviews concentrate on.
A restaurant like The Shalimar, down on
Central Avenue, may not look the greatest,
but the food is excellent there. And the
menu has lots of variety - beef, lamb, vegetarian,
chicken, and more..