Caroline St., Saratoga Springs, 584-4315. Serving lunch Mon-Fri
noon-3, dinner Mon-Sat from 5. AE, MC, V.
price range: $14 (grilled portobello steak) to $24
(Lime filet mignon)
B. A. Nillson
don’t contrast much more dramatically than in an entrée that
finishes a creamy serving of tilapia in a sauce that ignites
the palate, immediately soothing it with a cold mango salsa.
The hot sauce comes from Barbados, which is also the inspiration
for the cuisine of the Saratoga Springs restaurant Lime.
Chef-owner Will Yund traveled to Barbados on his recent honeymoon
with his wife, Hayden, “and we were blown away by the food
and how they use spices and other ingredients. We decided
that we wanted to take a similar approach, but to open ourselves
to food from all over the world.”
His cooking partner, Matt LaPorta, enthusiastically agrees,
and works alongside Will at the small presentation kitchen
toward the back of the restaurant. Their work is a well-choreographed
dance of sautée pans and plates and garnishes, all of it cooked
to order and served by an equally enthusiastic staff.
That staff includes Hayden, who sold me on the tilapia ($18)
when I confessed a desire for a spicy dish. She warned me,
yes she did, and took me at my word only after my wife and
daughter both confirmed that I would, in fact, consume whatever
was placed before me.
Usually I plead for heat only to be served something that
would be modest even by Taco Bell standards. Here the dish
had a worthy zing. Nothing especially fiery, but it woke up
the mouth, and the interplay between that sensation and the
chilled, tangy mangoes was great fun.
As if that wasn’t enough, the sides included blackened green
beans, still with a good amount of snap in them, and coconut-
flavored mashed potatoes, which you have to try to believe.
Lime opened quietly at the start of summer, following a four-month
renovation to transform it from the defunct Pickle Barrel,
a take-out sandwich joint, into something a little more formal.
The room has a clublike atmosphere, reinforced by the colorful
prints that decorate the walls. Sit at one of the several
tables or find a place at the counter. The just-acquired wine-and-beer
license means you can start with a cold one as you contemplate
the menu, but that won’t take too long: It’s brief. Comprehensive
might be a better term. Munch on a crispy pita chip or two—
they’re served with a mild chimichurri sauce—and consider
Jamaican beef patties ($7) looked like an appealing starter,
but they were unavailable. That led me to try the scallops
citron ($9), which I otherwise would have missed. Plump baby
sea scallops get an excellent browning in the sauté pan, and
are served alongside sautéed crab meat. What sets the dish
apart is the sweet but tangy brandy-and-ginger sauce that
stripes the plate, and through which you’d be crazy not to
drag that fish.
For more interactive eating, try the charred artichokes ($8),
a serving of two plump halves well poached and then grill-blackened.
Provided you know your way around this vegetable (some spiny
needles lurk en route to the heart), you’ve got your work
cut out for the next several minutes.
A house salad is five bucks, but I would go for the jicama
pear concoction ($9), highlighting a root vegetable dubbed
the Mexican potato, nicely matched with the pears along with
snow peas, baby spinach and more.
That house salad worked its way into Susan’s entrée, grilled
portobello steak ($14). The mushroom cap gets a jerk seasoning
rub before hitting the grill, and the accompanying peas and
rice (as the rice and beans combo is termed in the Caribbean),
help to spread the flavors, again a mixture of savory and
Jerk chicken or pork is a new menu addition. The $15 jerk
chicken arrives in a big bowl, with peas and rice. Jerk seasoning
is one of the glories of Caribbean cuisine. It combines a
wide array of elements that can include allspice, thyme, sage,
nutmeg, cinnamon, sugar, orange and lime juice, and chopped
habañero pepper. It seasons and conditions the meat, and the
flavor, as demonstrated here, is reassuringly lively.
We didn’t get to try the Lime filet mignon ($24), with its
trio of dipping sauces, the sake steamed clams ($17), or the
chicken Barbados ($17), an Indian-spiced cutlet served with
a banana, coconut and curaçao orange sauce. But we met a duo
dining at the counter, who had come in on their off night
for dinner—an off night from this very restaurant!
love this place,” one of them explained, and it got easier
and easier to see why. Service couldn’t have been friendlier
or more attentive, and each course packed a lot of surprises.
By the time we got to dessert—key lime pie and a serving of
port-wine ice cream—we had settled into a pleasant dining-with-the-family
mood and were swearing to the staff that we’d all be best
friends forever. Or maybe it was just the tilapia talking.
Whatever the case, this is a lively addition to Saratoga’s
eclectically growing culinary scene.
here for a list of recently reviewed restaurants.
your Oktoberfest celebration a French twist at
La Serre (14 Green St., Albany) at a food-and-wine
dinner also featuring a performance by The True
Tones. It’s at 7 PM Saturday (Oct. 20), and the
menu includes Stuttgart cheese, smoked salmon
potato pancakes, sauerbraten, apple strudel and
more, each course paired with a selected wine—with
a Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir among
the varieties. The French Oktoberfest is $60 per
person (tax and tip extra) and reservations are
required: call 463-6056. . . . The next Farmer/Wine
Evening at Marché (74 State St., Albany)
features items from Denison Farm and Elihu Farm
and will take place at 7 PM on Oct. 26. A champagne
reception accompanies an hors d’oeuvres selection
including winter squash pannacotta, shrimp rolls,
lamb tartare and more; look for lamb meatballs,
lamb tortellini and roasted leg of lamb among
the other courses, along with minted spinach pesto,
kale soup and pumpkin beignet for dessert. Wines
include Marcel Deiss Pinot Blanc Bergheim, Pesquera
Tinto and Talley Late Harvest Riesling. Only 50
seats are available; dinner is $85 plus tax and
tip. Call 434-7410. . . . Remember to pass your
scraps to Metroland.
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very much enjoyed eating dinner at Daniel's
at Ogdens. You review described my dining
experience perfectly. This wasn't the case
with Pancho's. I much prefer Garcia's or
Lake View Tavern for Mexican fare. I agree
that a restaurant can have an off night
so I'll give the second unit on Central
Avenue a try.
yes I miss the star ratings, bring it back.
Second, I haven't had a chance to visit
Poncho's yet, but I especially like reading
would travel to Amsterdam to this restaurant
- it's not that far away. People traveled
from all over to eat at Ferrandi's in Amsterdam.
From his background, I'm sure the chef's
sauce is excellent and that is the most
important aspect of an Italian restaurant.
Sometimes your reviewer wastes words on
the negative aspects of a restaurant. I'm
looking forward to trying this restaurant
- I look forward to Metroland every Thursday
especially for the restaurant review. And
by the way Ferrandi's closed its Amsterdam
location and is opening a new bistro on
Saratoga Lake - Should be up and running
in May. It will be called Saratoga Lake
Bistro. It should be great!
comments about the Indian / Pakistani restaurants
being as "standardized as McDonald's"
shows either that you have eaten at only
a few Indian / Pakistani restaurants or
that you have some prejudices to work out.
That the physical appearances are not what
you would consider fancy dancy has no bearing
on the food. And after all, that is what
the main focus of the reviews should be.
Not the physical appearances, which is what
most of your reviews concentrate on.
A restaurant like The Shalimar, down on
Central Avenue, may not look the greatest,
but the food is excellent there. And the
menu has lots of variety - beef, lamb, vegetarian,
chicken, and more..