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Recently reviewed restaurants:

Testoís, 853 Fourth Ave. (corner of 124th St.), Troy, 235-0444. A 31-year-old Troy institution famous for its sauce and its pizza, offering traditional Italian fare in a very friendly setting. Serving Tue-Sat 11:30-9. D, MC, V.

Lime, 7 Caroline St., Saratoga Springs, 584-4315. Itís Caribbean cooking with a twist, using ideas from all over the world. Bajan tilapia will wake up your palate; grilled portobello steak gets jerk seasoning. Serving lunch Mon-Fri noon-3, dinner Mon-Sat from 5. AE, MC, V.

Yipís Chinese Restaurant, 117 Columbia Turnpike, Rensselaer, 449-2030. A throwback to the classic Cantonese-American restaurant, with terrific bargains on favorite items and a warm, fun personality to the place. Serving Mon-Fri 11-10:30, Sat 11:30-10:30, Sun noon-10:30. AE, D, MC, V.

Cafť Madison, 1108 Madison Ave., Albany, 935-1094. Newly remodeled, with chef Jennifer Hewes helming dinner service, your favorite breakfast spot now offers excellent evening fine dining. Serving breakfast and lunch Mon-Thu 7:30-2, Fri-Sun 7:30-3, dinner Sun-Thu 5:30-10, Fri-Sat 5:30-11. AE, DC, MC, V.

Village Pizzeria & Ristorante, 2727 Route 29, East Galway, 882-9431. Family-run, family-friendly Italian dining with an expansive, not-too-expensive menu that runs a gamut from pizza to cioppino. Serving Mon 4-10, Wed-Sun 11:30-10. D, MC, V.

Aashiana Restaurant, 31 Central Ave., Albany, 463-4161. Itís Mediterranean-cum-Middle Eastern, with falafel, kebabs, Greek salads, sandwich wraps, soups, salads and more. Serving Mon-Thu 11:30-10, Fri 11:30-11, Sat noon-11. Lunch buffet Mon-Sat until 3. AE, D, MC, V.

Church and Main, 49 Church St., Canajoharie, 673-2433. Chef Michael Lapi and his co-owner wife, Robyn Dousharm, offer a menu of local meat and produce, expertly and creatively prepared in a delightfully old- fashioned setting. Serving dinner Thu-Sun from 5. MC, V.

The Village Oven, 30 Main St., West Stockbridge, Mass. (413) 232-7269. A friendly, casual restaurant serving pizza and pasta, panini and saladsówith a menu of fancier items for those with more ambitious appetites. Serving Thu-Mon noon-9. MC, V.

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