to Go Around
the buffet here during the next two Mondays, and you’ll be
served not where I was seated, but in the ballroom. No doubt
you’ll see construction going on in the dining rooms as the
restaurant prepares for a May 6 reopening.
the buffet becomes a moveable feast, appropriate to a meal
that otherwise requires its participants to do the wandering.
“We figured it was time to give the place a makeover,” said
hostess Peggy, whose welcome station you’ll find just to the
right of the bust of Columbus that welcomes you at the door.
The 35-year-old Italian American Community Center notes that
its restaurant is a kind of nerve center of the operation,
but the facility itself has sought a consistent identity through
many changes of management.
It’s now been run by the Mallozzi family for more than two
years, and they’re bringing a welcome consistency to bear
upon the operation. This isn’t surprising, as the Mallozzis
made a name with their eponymous Rotterdam eatery, now almost
exclusively given over to banquets (of which more below);
made a snazzy downtown Schenectady venue out of Villa Italia,
a bakery that rivals its native Italian counterparts; and
run the restaurant at the Western Turnpike Golf Club, as well.
They’re even opening a swanky place in downtown Albany soon,
when the Brown Derby debuts near the Palace Theatre at 22
on in, have a seat at your table or at the bar and we’ll get
you something to drink while you wait,” Peggy suggested when
I showed up in advance of the rest of my family. No cooling
your heels in the hallway here.
As a veteran of many a buffet line, ranging from cheap Chinese
to swanky resort, I’ve suffered the familiar indignity of
the eternal pause while some indecisive endomorph considers
the appetizer options, thus blocking my way to the entrées.
Here it’s been laid out in a much more sensible manner. Each
of the four stations is in its own location. Antipasti straddle
a dining room and the bar; pasta dishes (primi) are
assembled at the other end of the dining room. You’ll pass
the cheerful torment of the dessert station en route to the
secondi, or entrées, which is in a separate dining
My party assembled soon enough, and a friendly server gave
us the lowdown, pointing out the stations. “At the pasta table,
your request is made to order, and can be finished in a vodka
cream sauce, with marinara, with Alfredo sauce, or with garlic
I asked, being a wise guy.
doesn’t have the pancetta or eggs there for carbonara,” said
the server, deftly putting me back in my place, “but I’m sure
you’ll enjoy one of the other options.”
I did. I visited unflappable Matthew Smith, veteran of other
area restaurants, who ignited a sauté pan of vodka for an
impressive start to the proceedings, and added the right amount
of creamy tomato sauce along with the extra garlic and hot
pepper I requested, so that the finished dish of rigatoni
was very aromatic.
You sacrifice some of the traditional flavor values when making
a dish this way. Garlic doesn’t have the same chance to sweeten
and blend its flavor as it does in scratch cooking; pre-cooked
pasta gains a mealier texture. But that’s the buffet-line
sacrifice, and this is a far better approach than offering
the stuff in chafing dishes.
The stuffed manicotti you find at the secondi station,
being a baked dish, works better in that context, as do the
parmigiana dishes—chicken or eggplant—that also are available.
Steamed clams seemed to be moving fast enough to keep the
selection very fresh, and the baked scrod (which I didn’t
sample) looked plump and tasty.
I did take advantage of the carving station’s generosity and
heaped my plate with both the thin-sliced beef round and the
herb-crusted roasted pork. And, although they didn’t need
much help, it seemed only right to avail myself of the spicy
dijon sauce and the creamy horseradish.
A vegetable medley rose above the norm, with the mix of beans
and squash and peas not at all sodden and subtly seasoned.
And the three-cheese mashed potatoes aren’t to be missed,
mixing parmesan and provolone with an unlikely partner of
blue cheese—and some pesto dressing the top of the trayful.
Speaking of cheeses, some hearty chunks of blue adorn the
appetizer station, where fruit and bread are joined by several
salads (a few varieties of chickpea salads among them) and
a standard green salad with lots of veggie sides. Dressing?
Italian, of course.
The $17 buffet fee is almost worth it for the dessert alone.
You’ll recognize Villa Italia pastries and confections, and
the array of cakes and cookies (and, yes, fruit) makes it
more than any single sensibility can handle. Pace yourself.
Nobody will rush you.
And if Monday isn’t enough, you can catch the buffet again
on Wednesdays when it’s presented at Mallozzi’s Ballrooms
and Catering, 1930 Curry Road, Rotterdam. In true buffet style,
there’s too much of a good thing.
here for a list of recently reviewed restaurants.
can make a difference in the lives of those affected
by HIV/AIDS by dining out tonight (Thursday).
Dining Out for Life is an annual one-day
fundraiser held in to 47 cities across North America
to benefit locally based HIV/AIDS service organizations;
participating restaurants donate a generous portion
of proceeds from the day’s checks to their local
AIDS charity. Local venues include Bayou Café,
Beff’s, BFS, Cheesecake Machismo, DeJohn’s, Grandma’s
Restaurant, Justin’s, Magnolias on the Park, Nicole’s
Restaurant, Provence, Scratch Bakery Café, Milano,
Brindisi’s, Hattie’s, Longfellows, Mexican Connection,
Olde Bryan Inn, Tiznow, Ambition, Flavour Café
and Tosca Grill. Call ahead and mention Dining
Out for Life. . . . Remember to pass your scraps
to Metroland (food at banilsson.com).