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Ready
for the world: Kathleen Tesnakis of Ekologic.
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Think
Globally, Make Locally
Cutting-edge
Capital Region fashion designers find a little success here—and
a lot all over the world
By Heather Lumb
Photos by Shannon Decelle
If
you venture out for 1st Friday, Troy Night Out or Art Night
Schenectady, you can find local fashion designers mingling
with the artists and artsy types, taking a break from their
daily grind like many a state worker. From Ekologic in Troy
to Thimk. in Niskayuna, Capitol Region designers have their
own way of providing some cutting-edge fashions to the masses.
The only catch to these hometown haute heroes is that while
their designs are making bank, only a few of the sales are
in the 518 area code. So why stay settled here, when it’s
the Bostonians, the Californians, the New Yorkers who can’t
get enough of their stuff?
Designer Staci Snider of Saratoga Springs laughs at the restrictions
that the fashion industry often tries to put on designers:
“New York City has too many rules, and it’s very regulated,
and you see a lot of copying.”
After graduating from the Academy of Art College in San Francisco,
MFA in hand, Snider launched her career in Paris and Milan,
which ultimately led her to Spain and finally to New York
City. “I just could not breathe in the city, and I kept taking
trips back to Saratoga just to get some clarity.”
It made perfect sense to set up a workshop in the area she
grew up in: Snider has clients for whom she constructs custom
dresses for the racetrack and black tie-event season. Working
with an avant-garde but realistic sense of style, her ensembles
are usually created once, for one wearer, and each season
her designs focus very strictly on one inspiration, and often
with local themes. “A while back I did a collection on Marylou
Whitney, in which I hand-drew her image on the clothing, and
that sold fast and really well,” she says. The pieces honoring
the socialite sold in June 2006 at quite a price—a dress for
$2,500 and a skirt for $1,650.
Snider’s European education is a large part of her “design
what you love, not what you’re expected [to love]” ethic,
and her clientele have proven receptive; her silk charmeuse
jumpsuit (one of the few items she will duplicate) has been
flying through her fingers at $395 a pop. Snider receives
a hefty number of orders through her Web site, from women
from all over the country. “I’ve been told I have a very South
Beach look, and I’m doing well in Los Angeles,” says Snider.
Gina Mauro, a Niskayuna native, also agrees that working outside
the major metropolitan centers can be beneficial. This distance
allows her to ship genuine non-New York City looks to city
dwellers constantly on the hunt for what everyone else isn’t
wearing.
“As
soon as I make something, I ship it off to a store,” Mauro
says. Her work is popular in San Francisco boutiques, and
New York City hot spots like the Hillary Flowers Designer
Collective and AuH20 on the Lower East Side; the latter stocks
only “recycled” garments. She silk-screens, reconstructs and
restructures vintage wear into original wear, working within
an aesthetic that values minimum waste. Mauro has a line called
Thimk., in which she weaves suggestions of nature into boutique-ready
fashion. Mauro recruited some friends and family to help with
screen printing; her work space is phenomenally large and
scenic. Nature is her inspiration—her popular “The Adirondacks
are Gneiss” T-shirt was her own quirky nod to the “Ithaca
is Gorges” slogan.
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It’s
ekological: Tesnakis with her dog, Zoe.
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Mauro
may even try selling her work around here: “I would really
like to start selling clothes at some boutiques upstate, just
so that I can be more in touch with the independent designers
up here,” she adds. “I know there are loads of creative people
and I just can’t wait to meet them and be inspired and work
together.”
Kathleen Tesnakis spends her average day at the office speed-walking
through her Troy warehouse-studio flipping tube dresses inside
out, rearranging color samples, brushing the hair out of her
eyes and choosing which T-shirt-turned-play-skirt she will
ship to Japan. Ekologic, the go-green fashion company she
started with her husband Charlie, sells Goodwill-gone glamour
items around the world. The brand sells to more than 80 stores
nationwide and beyond, from Fred Segal in California to Dusk
in Troy, to her favorite customers—in Tokyo.
Excelling in both menswear and women’s fashions, Ekologic
dismantles reclaimed 100-percent cashmere and cotton garments,
and transfigures them into art-deco dresses, Buddy Holly “hipster”
sweaters; six different types of hats (that you have to see
to really believe), and other multi-season accessories.
“It
was in Portland [Ore.] that I found style that reflected the
organic, and maintained quality,” Tesnakis says. “And I found
my own way, putting new products into the world that reflected
the end-users’ personality.” A glimpse at the portfolio will
show that Tesnakis and her team of seven (if you include the
her dog, Zoe) construct body-conscious pieces with a sexy
silhouette and modern-without-being-trendy design. Though
her customer base is mainly outside of the area, Tesnakis
has a deep love for her current surroundings. One of her pieces
is an ode to Troy: the Cuff and Collar. “It’s my little reinvention
of the detachable collar the Industrial Revolution brought
about here; the city has a deep history of innovation, hard
work and tight community, which I find amazing.”
With its budding independent art scene, Troy provides a sturdy
connection for networking. Artist-designer Wendy Costa adores
the city’s architecture and arts community, and her company
thrives in a carriage house nestled behind her brick mansion
of a home. Everything about Costa seems eccentric except her
voice: She nods to her whimsical works, and in a soothing
librarian tone, explains, “I’m seduced by the history of the
area, and although I don’t . . . have a store, I’ve done graphics
for shows, for Flavour Café, and will eventually try opening
my own boutique when the time is right.”
Visit her Web site, and your senses are immediately on high
alert; the punchy colors, drifting swirls and a big assortment
of products can keep you hypnotized for hours. That well-stocked
online catalogue is the key to her success. “It’s unbelievably
successful, and that’s due to its perfect presence and representation,”
she says.
So agrees Sugar Mafia designer Angelique, whose “eclectic
mix of vintage findings and mirrored acrylic pieces” caters
to—and is inspired by—the punk-glam young folk that hang around
tattoo parlors. In fact, her designs are available in Lark
Vegas Piercing Boutique on Lark Street in Albany. Angelique’s
product is publicized and talked about on social networking
sites like MySpace, Style Hive, Etsy and other online boutiques
and blogs. Angelique insists that her designs, which commonly
feature ironic powder-pink expletives or edgy black and pastel
cameos, are making their mark. “The online store is constantly
growing, and new boutiques contact me everyday; I sell a bit
better abroad rather than local,” says the designer. However,
she adds, “I strive to find a local art scene.” Angelique
is a huge fan of—and participant in—the River Street Festival
in Troy; she’s also involved with Albany’s Upstate Magazine
in Albany.
“When
the community invests in independent designers, I can have
the best of both worlds,” she says.
The
work of all these designers can be viewed at their Web sites:
stacisnider.com; ginamauroart.com; ekologic.com; wendycosta.com;
angelovepink.com.
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