State St., Schenectady, 374-3548. Serving 11 AM-midnight Mon-Sat,
11-11 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. .
burritos, sandwiches, wings
price range: $2.50 (taco) to $8 (Jamaican jerk pork
through downtown Albany. Lunchtime. An insane notion: Try
to find a parking place on Lark Street and have a good ol’
Bombers meal. Effrontery rewarded. A spot across the street
from the eatery. And then the kicker: We turned invisible.
It was a very strange feeling. My daughter and I walked into
the restaurant, amazed and pleased to find tables available,
picked up a menu . . . and were completely ignored. Two fellows
were working the counter; neither issued a greeting, a glance,
or any other form of recognition.
We thumped ourselves. Still solid. We could see one another.
We moved near the counter. Still nothing. One fellow grabbed
a spatula and flipped something on the grill. The other answered
a ringing phone. We gave up and left. Then we decided to try
the recently opened Bombers in Schenectady.
The burrito is reckoned to have been crafted about a century
ago by a street vendor in Mexico’s Ciudad Juárez, where it
remains a favored food. During its journey north of the border,
it grew, not surprisingly, fatter, and picked up the mixture
of ingredients we associate with the dish—those which characterize
The Lark Street Bombers opened 12 years ago, the product of
a wagering windfall won by Matt Baumgartner, and was modeled
after West Coast Tex-Mex places he and Lynn Beaumont had enjoyed.
They kept an eye on the good-health component, designing a
menu that kept the fat content down. Since then, Bombers has
added a bar featuring tequila and beer (naturally), with a
generous array of selections, and it organizes its week into
theme nights, with karaoke, trivia contests and more.
The menu is identical at both locations, written large on
blackboards and described in a tidy three-fold takeout page.
Ten types of burrito head the list, all but two priced at
$6.50, almost all of them wrapped with rice, beans, lettuce
and salsa. Fillings include ground beef, chicken (regular,
barbecued or with gravy), chili (with or without meat), pork
(jerk or barbecued) and, for an extra buck, barbecued tofu
or vegetarian chicken nuggets.
A similar variety of taco is offered ($2.50 apiece, soft shell
or crisp), and the taco equivalent of sliders are sold 12
for $5. Quesadillas come in $5 and $6 flavors, the latter
reflecting your choice of chicken or ground beef. A $5 bowl
of chili has meat or not, and it can be served atop an order
assure me they have chicken wings, too,” you say, even as
you know in your heart that such has to be the case. In fact,
your $8 dozen is available not only in varying degrees of
hotness but also in flavors such as honey maple barbecue,
ranchero, tequila and lemon- pepper garlic. We sampled that
last-named variety, and it’s a great alternative to the usual,
packing some spice into the crispy wings’ flavor while making
it a tad less messy to consume. Blue cheese dressing and celery?
Of course. We long ago stopped asking why. Monday is wing
night, when $5 dozens of the flappers are served in the upstairs
dining room (both locations). It’s a good forum for sampling
the many beer varieties.
The Schenectady shop sits right on State Street, in a building
that once was the Jos. Nusbaum clothing store and a boxing
gym, right across from Proctors. The dining area, in the streetside
part of the building, has a pleasant mix of factory and wine
bar, with long, polished counters and lively music.
We made our way to the rear, to the counter, where we were
easily able to place an order. You give a name with your choices,
fill your own sodas, and it’s not long before someone hollers
after you, prompting you to pick up.
Jerk pork in a burrito? It’s as unlikely as it is perfectly,
irreverently American. My daughter considered it, then went
a more familiar route: a pulled pork burrito. For me, the
proper context includes cole slaw and cornbread, but let’s
scrub that word “proper” and celebrate the combo of pulled
pork with rice and black beans. Likewise, why not a sandwich
of jerk pork? It’s an $8 dish that features an outsized bun
dripping at the edges with melted cheese, an order of spicy
seasoned fries (called Rasta fries here), and some tangy salsa.
We couldn’t finish any of it. It’s tough stuff to reheat,
but we managed, and enjoyed it all over again later.
Our visit to Bombers was just after lunch hour, when the restaurant
presents its more passive daylight identity. Lunch was perfectly
satisfying, and I couldn’t ask for a better alternative to
fast-food chains. Look for a different face after dark, as
Bombers works to provide something Schenectady hasn’t had
in years: a night life.
here for a list of recently reviewed restaurants.
fourth annual Little Italy Streetfest takes place
from noon till 9 PM on Saturday (Sept. 12) along
that city’s North Jay Street, where local restaurants
will have streetside stands featuring preparations
of calamari, eggplant, zeppole, panini, chicken
parmesan, sausage and peppers and more. Entertainment
includes music throughout the day by accordion
virtuoso Johnny Ferrari, Grand Central Station
at noon, vocals by Tommy Verrigni at 3, and Happy
Daze at 6. Italian cultural exhibits, artwork,
genealogy information and films also will be offered.
Visitors are encouraged to bring their lawn chairs.
. . . Take a gastronomic tour of three unique
Mansion Neighborhood homes in Albany from 2 to
5 PM on Sunday (Sept. 13), as you enjoy a different
course at each destination. Enjoy the creations
of area chefs and hosts, with some excellent wine
along the way. Guests will pick up their tickets
and souvenir cookbooks at Bleecker Park (Madison
and Philip Streets) at 1:45 PM. It’s $40 per person
and requires advance payment; for more info, call
433-0140 or 436-7848. . . . Remember to pass your
scraps to Metroland.