Land and Sea
Mohawk Ave., Scotia, 393-3344. Serving lunch 11:30-1:30 Tue-Fri;
dinner 5-9 Tue-Fri, 5-10 Sat, 11:30-8 Sun. AE, D, MC, V.
price range: $11 (pasta primavera) to $23 (turf and
of what you need to know about the Turf Tavern is right there
in the menu, which you can find on their Web site. Steak teriyaki
($16), filet mignon ($20), New York strip steak ($20), chicken
parmesan ($14). Those are the lead-off entrées, and they define
a style of American restaurant that’s all too rare these days.
The customer demographic? Let’s just say that the first and
second flushes of youth are far behind. Which nicely suits
Scotia and its environs, and partially explains why this restaurant
has flourished here since the 1940s.
The food is familiar, the prices are low, and consistency
is the watchword. Nothing too threatening appears on the menu.
And there’s nothing fancy about the preparation and presentation
of the food, although the $21 Turf Tower has an arresting
appearance, stacked on a bright red plate with a topping of
crisped onions. More on that in a moment.
This is a calm, old-fashioned eatery that’s formal in a most
casual way. A large banquet hall adjoins the restaurant, so
make sure to choose the proper door. It won’t hurt to make
a reservation, especially on a Proctors event night. This
is the dinner destination downtown Schenectady badly wishes
it could duplicate, but it’s hard to compete with so much
is the name of the game when it comes to filling seats,” says
chef-owner Tom Gallant, whose wife, Maria, oversees the floor.
“We were careful not to make any big changes when we bought
the restaurant in 1996, and we’re reluctant to change things
now. Everything on the menu sells very well.”
The Gallants bought Turf Tavern from Steve and Fanny Karamanos,
who ran it for more than 40 years. The banquet room was added
more than 20 years ago, and the Gallants did some remodeling
when they took over, but the feeling of the place has remained
as consistent as the food.
Appetizers include standbys like stuffed mushrooms ($6), bruschetta
($5), shrimp served chilled with cocktail sauce ($9) or wrapped
in bacon ($8), and French onion soup ($4.25). Or do as I did
and share a for-two selection of shrimp Nicole (that’s the
bacon-wrapped one), bruschetta and stuffed mushrooms for $10.
By the time this arrives, you’ll have torn through a basket
of warm bread and spent some time admiring the layout of the
rooms. The main dining area sports a portrait titled “Ye Olde
Gateway West: Scotia Bridge,” painted in 1957 and depicting
the old covered structure that crosses the Mohawk River atop
a series of stone pilings. Smaller dining areas are partition-separated,
and the bar is set off from the dining room by a large window
easily mistaken for a mirror.
By the time you finish the appetizer, you’ll be full. Just
in time for the salads, those sneaky appetite-fillers. No
wonder we saw many a takeout bag go by.
Four special entrées were described on a separate menu page
when we visited, a simple array of chicken and steak, stuffed
sole, pork marsala or prime rib, priced at $13 or $14, and
available as a complete dinner (adding soup, dessert and coffee)
for an extra $3.75.
In addition to the aforementioned steaks and chicken parm,
the regular entrée list offers veal scallopine or Savannah,
the latter a preparation with mushrooms and prosciutto ($16
each), chicken Roberto (marinated and grilled) or Savannah
($14 each) and herb-encrusted pork ($15.50), which we discovered
is a pan-seared tenderloin seasoned with mustard and herbs,
giving it a crunchy finish, and served sliced with a pleasingly
aromatic roasted garlic demi-glace.
Those cuts of prime rib looked tempting as they went by, obviously
a popular dish. But I cooked and served prime rib during my
long-ago restaurant days and can’t see that it’s much of a
chef’s showcase. This is not to diminish its power as a crowd
pleaser: The carnivore in me delights in the tender meat,
and it eases the kitchen’s toil on a busy night.
A quartet of pasta dishes also had appeal, including seafood
Fra Diavolo ($16, available unspiced for the timorous), and
a bargain-priced pasta primavera for $11.
My love-hate relationship with tradition eases toward the
latter when it comes to surf and turf, which, to my palate,
dims the appeal of a good steak by throwing it at a portion
of bland, overpriced lobster. I suspect it still represents,
for many, some notion of ultra-fancy that distinguishes dining
out from the drudgery of dining in. But the Turf Tower pairs
two tenderloin medallions with a fat crab cake, sauced with
another of chef Tom’s nice demi-glaces, this one bourbon-laced,
and topped, as mentioned above, with a sheaf of crisped onions
to give it a contrasting bit of crunch.
One of the clues to the kitchen’s skill is the side dish.
In this case, the vegetables that came with the meal. An array
of squash and carrots was crisp and tasty and not overbuttered,
and gave the plates a pleasing finishing touch.
Will the restaurant be heading in any significantly new directions?
“There’s a fine line between pleasing the regulars and being
a little creative by attempting new dishes,” says Tom, and
I can’t fault him this attitude. The Turf Tavern embodies
a very old-fashioned approach to dining, but does it well
enough to make it a nice—and economical—nostalgia trip.
You can’t escape it, the inevitable musings over the decade
that was. Top-10 lists abound about everything from movies
to trends, as we collectively struggle to make sense of it
all, find meaning in the time that has passed and, in the
process, perhaps prove to ourselves that, through out involvement
in anything on those lists, we matter. “I love that movie
too!” we inwardly squeal as we read The New York Times’
picks for best cinema of the aughts, and somehow we feel vindicated,
or at least still relevant. And since my life revolves in
many ways around food, its preparation, presentation and consumption,
I guess it follows that I would be forced to put my thoughts
on the same and what’s transpired since 2000.
I think the biggest change surrounding food that has taken
root since the early years of the decade is our obsession
with weight and portion control, which includes concern over
trans fat and childhood obesity. Surely, Morgan Spurlock’s
Super Size Me (2004) made a lot more people aware of
the problem that comes from eating too many extra-large servings
of fries, but, typical of our breed, we continue to look for
quick fixes on convenient ways to shed calories that don’t
require the essential X factor, which is regular exercise.
OK, so much for the sermonizing. Cities such as New York instituted
regulations requiring that menus display nutritional information,
which resulted in the shocking realization—for me—that the
mac-and-five-cheese entrée at Penn Station’s TGI Friday’s
has less bad fat and calories than any of its salads. Lots
of snack manufacturers did away with their trans fats, too,
or reconstituted their recipes to utilize baked, not fried,
potatoes. The resulting Dorito, for instance, is noticeably
lighter, but a taste challenge for palates used to a certain
sweet/salty indicator in such things.
Organic foods have become much more mainstream, as people
seek healthier lifestyles and come to understand the importance
of local sourcing on both their bodies and their regional
economies. Still, critics love to expound upon the sheer expense
of organic produce, compared to what can be bought at the
local supermarket, and do a little “I told you so” jig when
E. coli epidemics, related to products like organic lettuce
or tomatoes, break out. Still, Michelle Obama’s embrace of
organic gardening and healthier menus at the White House has
added a chic element to the whole process. Nevertheless, critics
such as James Thurber, the director of American University’s
Center on Congressional and Presidential Studies, point out
that the administration does not have a clear policy of action
with respect to overhauling the food system.
Sustainable is another catchword that has caught on, even
as a great many people don’t understand the first thing about
it. But this decade has seen successful campaigns which, using
scientific studies as a basis, convinced chefs and consumers
to stop using endangered food products, notably swordfish
and Chilean sea bass. Indeed, a reputable Web site, montereybayaquarium.org,
informs professionals and consumers on a daily basis what
seafood is endangered and which contain higher-than-normal
amounts of chemicals.
As we sink deeper into economic troubles, our desire for homey
dishes increases exponentially, which explains why Bon
Appetit’s January 2010 issue proclaims meatballs as the
dish of the year. Increasingly, magazines and food shows are
offering newer versions of macaroni and cheese, many featuring
evocative ingredients like pancetta or truffle oil. This year,
Cook’s Country Magazine produced Best Lost Suppers,
a series of regional and traditional home-cooked recipes like
chicken-and-dumpling casserole, funeral potatoes with ham
and salmon wiggle, each of which has been fine-tuned and modernized
in America’s Test Kitchen.
For all our desire for rich homey goodness, our prerequisite
is firm: We must be in and out of the kitchen in short time.
Hence, Jim Lahey’s book My Bread promises the home
cook the down-home comfort of freshly baked bread with the
convenience of a no-knead (and perceived time-consuming) technique.
Countless cookbook titles proclaim dinner in 30 minutes, or
in three ingredients. The Food Network, which has grown immensely
since its early days, now includes, as the bulk of its lineup,
shows like Rachael Ray’s 30 Minute Meals and Robin
Miller’s Quick Fix Meals, not to mention the odious
Semi-Homemade Cooking with Sandra Lee, which tells
one how to make Cool Whip and canned peaches into something,
well, semi-homemade. Purists sniff at the idea of rushing
through food preparation, but it cannot be denied that we
are extremely pressed for time. Indeed, I would argue that,
as long as we’re cooking for our families, whether we do so
in under a half-hour or over the course of several, we’re
doing something right.
Speaking of the Food Network, back when we first began receiving
it, I was on maternity leave with my eldest and quickly became
hooked on a show called Ready Set Cook!, in which two
audience members would join famous, or semi-famous, chefs
on stage to prepare a meal in under 30 minutes using the five
ingredients each had brought with them. This resulted in delightful
challenges, like what to do with a can of kidney beans, some
sausage, a head of broccoli, a jar of molasses and a pomegranate.
Nowadays, the network has augmented its “anybody can cook
quickly” lineup with a series of reality- and challenge-based
programming. Ready Set Cook! has given way to Iron
Chef America, in which an unknown chef challenges the
likes of Bobby Flay or Masaharu Morimoto to see who can best
the other by making five dishes using a mystery ingredient,
which can be anything from octopus to broccoli. Other shows
feature home cooks vying to make the best dish using a Pillsbury
product, or concocting multi-storied cakes based on the Seven
Wonders of the Ancient World. Indeed, as one writer noted
recently, the tenor of the channel’s programming has become
much more spectator, rather than participatory, in nature.
As the Internet has exploded with excellent and evocative
blogs about food and dining, like eGullet.org and chow.com
to name just two, the world of such matters has diminished,
at least as far as printed publications are concerned. October
saw the sudden demise of the great Gourmet, made all
the more disheartening by the fact that Ruth Reichl and company
were unable to prepare a final December issue befitting the
end of a legend. Other magazines, noticeably Cooking Light
and Bon Appetit, retooled, and Martha Stewart’s Every
Day Food continues to chug on. Younger generations apparently
don’t share my need to have a magazine or a recipe in hand
to pore over the pictures of food, wine and convivial people,
to dogear pages and tear out recipes to store in a file for
A few years ago Food & Wine printed a provocative
article about the emerging prominence of screw tops for wine.
At the time, I, like many quoted for the piece, were aghast,
equating such tops with remembrances of Boones Farm or Thunderhead.
Even when confronted with the environmental component of producing
real cork, many turned up their noses. And guess what? They’re
here, they’re often from top-notch vintners, and unless you
make the unfortunate mistake, as have I, of attempting to
open a bottle with a corkscrew, they make perfect sense.
Speaking of wine, the decade has seen a lot more educating
of the masses as to how to buy and especially how to navigate
a restaurant wine list without looking like either a rube
or a miser.
The emergence of food-related allergies has taken a foothold,
especially in schools, which now proclaim themselves peanut-free
zones. The Boston-based chef Ming Tsai has made it his mission
to educate the food industry, especially restaurant workers,
about how best to accommodate the dietary restrictions of
its patrons. Not surprisingly, many in the medical field still
question or even pooh-pooh the effect of, say, dairy products
on conditions such as excema or asthma.
The best thing that has evolved over the past 10 years is
probably the greater understanding, acceptance, availability
and use of international products, even though, ironically,
the trend leads to philosophical dilemmas involving the actual
costs related to such use. The other great ethical question
we face is how to better husband international resources and
harness traditional agrarian techniques with science and technology
in such a way as to provide food for the great many who are
starving. It’s got to be done. So here we are in 2010, weathering
unsure economic times and global turmoil, and yet blessed
with incredible bounty and choices.
here for a list of recently reviewed restaurants.
a last call to Wine & Dine for the Arts,
with three days of events to choose from, showcasing
the work of two dozen of the area’s most extraordinary
chefs. Start tonight (Jan. 7) with a vintners
dinner held from 6-9 PM at 16 downtown Albany
restaurants, including dp-An American Brasserie,
Café Capriccio, Dale Miller, March @ 74 State,
New World Bistro Bar, Scrimshaw Restaurant and
the Hollywood Brown Derby. Tomorrow (Friday, Jan.
8) from 4 to 8 PM and Saturday (Jan. 9) from 1
to 4 PM, you’ll get a Taste of Albany at the Crowne
Plaza, featuring selections from 50 restaurants
and beverage suppliers. The event culminates with
a Chef’s Grand Dinner and Wine Auction from 6
to 11 PM Saturday at the Crowne Plaza. The chefs
for that event include Brian Molino, Yono Purnomo,
Mark Graham, Jim Rua, Jaime Ortiz, Dale Miller
and AJ Jayapal. Tickets are $50 for the Taste
of Albany and $125 for the Grand Dinner. The events
will benefit Capital Repertory Theatre. Find more
info and buy tickets at albanywinefest.com, or
call 462-4531, ext. 209. . . . Remember to pass
your scraps to Metroland.