of the Neighborhood
Restaurant and Pizzeria
Union St., Schenectady, 393-7440. Serving lunch 11:30-1:30
Tue-Sat, dinner 4:30-9:30 Tue-Sat. D, MC, V
price range: $10 (pasta with tomato sauce) to $38 (veal
rarely any predicting the numbers your restaurant will do
on a given day, but you can count on Saturday being the busiest
night of the week. Scotti’s doesn’t take reservations for
parties of fewer than six, but the pleasant woman at the other
end of the phone promised last Saturday that if I arrived
soon—I was calling at 5:30—we’d be seated quickly.
By the time my foursome arrived, we had a 15-minute wait.
By the time we were seated, walk-ins were being advised that
the wait might be an hour or more. Throughout our meal, no
table in the small dining room was empty for longer than it
took to reset it. But the place was heavily staffed and the
service, though brisk, was attentive.
And the food was terrific.
Scotti’s Restaurant has weathered the changing face of Niskayuna’s
upper Union Street since 1966. When I last reviewed it, 20
years ago, it was the neighborhood’s favorite restaurant,
lauded to me by a local who wasn’t sure he really wanted the
When current chef-owner Guy Sementilli bought it in 1994,
he’d already gained familiarity by working at Scotti’s. “It’s
really the only job I’ve had,” he says. “I started there in
1989 washing dishes, and went on to wait on tables and do
some cooking. And I got to know the clientele.” He got his
hotel and restaurant management degree from Schenectady County
Community College, did an internship at Disney World, and
returned to his old neighborhood as a new restaurateur.
Disney World? “You’d be surprised. To this day, I use the
experience and tactics I learned there,” he says.
Key to maintaining Scotti’s popularity has been maintaining
the Scotti’s tradition. Although Sementilli changes the menu
every three to four months, it’s usually only to add an item.
“I don’t dare take anything off, or my regulars would get
I can’t honestly say whether the lasagna ($14) is exactly
what I had two decades ago, but here’s how I described it:
“The traditional layers of pasta and ricotta were there, with
the delicious addition of spicy sausage as another layer and
tomato sauce as still another. All bubbling under a meaty
roof of cheese. The portion looked small. I couldn’t finish
it until lunchtime the following day.”
Once again, we left with leftover lasagna among the several
take-home containers. The sausage is now menu-described as
sweet, but rich is a more apt term for the components both
singly and combined.
Other traditional pasta dishes include your choice of macaroni
with traditional red sauce ($10), with marinara ($11) and
with marinara laced with scallions and garlic ($12). Baked
manicotti ($12.50) and cheese ravioli ($11) also are on that
If you need to warm up your appetite before the pasta plunge,
choose from cold items like tomato and mozzarella salad with
roasted peppers ($8.50), shrimp cocktail ($9) and antipasto
($9.75), or such hot fare as crostini topped with a tomato-caper
salsa ($8), mussels marinara Fra Diavolo (two pounds of ’em
for $15) or hot, seafood-rich antipasto ($16).
Seafood figures into the main courses, with items like scallops
Santino (adding Alfredo sauce and broccoli over penne, $19),
baked scrod ($19) and several linguine enhancements: shrimp
($17), calamari ($16), clams ($17), shrimp and clams ($19)
and—you guessed it—all three items ($23).
Among the classics are veal Sorrento (adding eggplant in a
red sauce dish, $17.50), eggplant rollatini ($17), chicken
cacciatore ($16.50) and the trio of parmigianas: eggplant
($16), chicken ($16) or veal ($18.50). We sampled the chicken
version and found it to be a generous portion that’s as classically
prepared as they come, with the sauce enhanced by roasted
is one of our main ingredients,” Sementilli says, and it was
especially nice to see so many slices of the roasted variety
peppering our dishes. My order of pasta all’Arrabbiata ($16),
for instance, was characterized by a generous array of sausage
slices in a spicy red sauce that coated a large plate of penne,
and the roasted garlic not only eased its flavor through but
balanced the other flavors of the dish. Even a relatively
simple dish like cavatelli and broccoli ($13), with a crunchy,
freshly cooked vegetable balancing the dense, sweet-tasting
pasta got a needed lift from its garlic content.
Dinners are served with salads or sides of pasta where appropriate,
and the salads sported a good mixture of greens and vegetables.
Warm bread is crusty. The wine list offers reasonably priced
selections by bottle or glass.
You’re sharing the dining room with close-at-hand neighbors,
but the presence of so many others never felt intrusive. Although
we were among those waiting near the entrance and thus trying
to will the dessert eaters to leave all the more quickly (burning
the backs of their necks with our laser-intense stares), once
we were seated we grew instantly oblivious to the crowd by
Because this restaurant was so welcoming on a busy night,
I’m looking forward to returning on a weeknight when I’ll
be ready for my next garlic-and-red-sauce fix.
here for a list of recently reviewed restaurants.
Day Nursery’s 11th
annual fundraising event, “A Little Bit of Jazz
& More,” will take place from 5:30 to 8 today
(Thursday, April 29) in the Fenimore Gallery at
Proctors Theatre (432 State St., Schenectady).
The “more” part of the proceedings includes a
cornucopia of food, including a carving station
with turkey breast and roast beef, a pasta station,
an hors d’oeuvres display and, if you don’t want
to fetch your food, circulating trays with even
more hors d’oeuvres, including sesame chicken,
a Mediterranean artichoke tart, shrimp Wellington,
spanakopita and more. There will be complimentary
beer and wine and Chocolates by Lindt. The jazz
part is a performance by Colleen Pratt and Friends.
The event includes a benefit drawing with a choice
of a $500 gift card at either Town TV or Empress
Travel, and gift baskets sponsored by the Schenectady
Day Nursery Board of Directors. Reservations are
$50 per person or $100 for honorary committee
status, and may be made by calling Jim Kalohn
at 894-6305. . . . Remember to pass your scraps