 |
|
Community
care: third-generation Rapp Road resident Emma Dickson.
Photo:
Chris Shields
|
Living
History
Founded more than 70 years ago by an African-American
preacher, the Rapp Road Community is still vitalthanks
to a legacy of self-sufficiency and a scrappers instinct
By John Rodat
The
driver is red in the face, blotchy, harried-looking and
abrupt—but Emma Dickson doesn’t seem to notice.
“Is
there a gas station around here?” the meaty, bespectacled
motorist huffs, almost indignantly.
Leaning forward solicitously and sweeping her long braids
back over her shoulder, Dickson points out beyond the tail
end of the metallic beige, midsized American sedan, back
the way it came just before swerving hazardously to a sharp
halt in the oncoming lane.
She offers: “You want to go back out on to Western Avenue—did
you come from Western?” There is no answer. So Dickson continues,
nearly without pause, “Head back onto Western, turn left
and just drive a very short distance and there’s a Mobil
right there.”
Without a word of thanks, the driver jerks the steering
wheel down, and punches the car through a hard half- circle
back to the main thoroughfare off Rapp Road.
Walking away from the rush-hour encounter, away from Western
Avenue further into the heart of the small community of
modest bungalows and cottages between Western and Washington
Avenue Extension, Dickson suggests, “You’re going want to
come off the road there. Round this time, they don’t slow
down for anyone.”
And it’s true. As the sun begins to set over this cluster
of homes in the Pine Bush opposite Crossgates Commons, commuters
zip steadily along Rapp Road, unheeding of the two pedestrians
skirting its edge. In fairness, at first glance there’s
not a lot here to snag the attention of folks eager to get
back to their homes in Guilderland or Colonie. The tidy
houses are unassuming; and the few in obvious disrepair
are—for all their sad shabbiness—unremarkable. From the
viewpoint through a passing windshield, this is just another
nether neighborhood, one to pass through quickly on the
way home at the end of a workday, or in a hurry to the denim
sale at Old Navy.
One wonders, though, if the traffic pattern and pace will
remain the same when the blue-and-gold markers arrive and
are posted at each end of Rapp Road. Will people stop if
the plans to convert the ramshackle structure closest to
the mall into an information center and small museum come
to fruition? Or will the cars continue to stream unknowingly
through this 70-year-old African-American community, this
recent addition to both the New York state and the National
Registry of Historical Districts? Will they slow down to
view the Promised Land?
“Yes,
God led him here,” says Dickson of Elder Louis W. Parson,
the Mississippi preacher who founded the Rapp Road Community
in May 1930. It’s a simple faithful statement, but Dickson,
a third-generation resident of the community, delivers it
with a hint of resignation. Working with Jennifer Lemack,
a research fellow at the New York State Museum, Dickson
has dutifully investigated the history of the community,
conducting interviews with original settlers, combing county
records and traveling back to Parson’s point of origin in
Shubuta, Miss. For all their methodical study, though, when
it comes right down to it, there’s still the “Why Albany?”
question. The settlement is in some ways so unlikely that
divine guidance still works as well as any more academically
acceptable explanation.
“During
the Great Migration [of African-Americans out of the South
between 1910 and 1940], there was the perception of greater
racial equality in the North,” says Dickson, giving the
backdrop for Parson’s own migration. (Lemack adds that the
preacher, as a recipient of a Workman’s Compensation settlement
for injuries suffered as either a logger or a railroad employee,
may have felt himself to be a too- conspicuously well-off
Southern black man.)
 |
|
Standing
in the shadow of the mall: Toliver House, the oldest
Rapp Road residence. Photo:
Chris Shields
|
So,
Parson’s departure with his wife, Frances, in itself, makes
sense. But rather than following the lure of decent wages
in the factories of Chicago or another major metropolis,
Parson made his way to Albany, for whatever private and/or
inspired reason. Here, in Albany’s South End, he met a women’s
prayer group with whom he founded the First Church of God
and Christ. Very shortly thereafter, he began risky runs
back to Shubuta to retrieve his congregation—carload after
carload in his seven-person Buick. These missions required
daring, stealth and sacrifice, as many of those whom Parson
transported were deep in debt to local landlords and had
to travel light, often leaving under cover of night. There
were in fact warrants issued for Parson’s arrest.
“They
put a bounty on him,” Dickson explains. “Why? Same reason
as slavery: cheap labor. [The Southern blacks] worked in
places where the landowner owned the whole county—that was
the case with my own parents. They would go to get seed,
and they would put that amount on the books. When your crop
came in, you would go back and pay them whatever amount
of seed money that you had borrowed. And many times when
they went back they were told, ‘No, you owe more.’ ”
It was a desperate situation for the sharecroppers: “If
you’re black and you’re in the South and a landowner says
to the law that you owe them more money, you owe them more
money. No matter what you say, no matter what you know the
truth is. These people realized, ‘We’re being cheated, and
we’re just in a different type of bondage than slavery.
And they’re going to keep us here forever.’ ”
In retrospect, it’s easy to view Parson’s clandestine shuttle
service as a lifeline, a motorized Underground Railroad.
For many of the former residents of Shubuta, however, the
transition would prove as difficult as the travel. At the
time, it was a challenge for members of Parson’s congregation
to feel at home in even this small city.
“Even
though the situation was definitely much, much worse in
the South, they started to go back,” Dickson says. “In the
South End at the time they had all the brothels and the
prostitutes—it was pretty rough place, back then.”
The lives of Parson’s followers were strictly church-centered;
these were devout people, decidedly uncomfortable in the
thick of the iniquity—the prostitution, gambling and boozing—of
the red-light district. But it was the more subtle challenges
to the ingrained habits of a formerly agrarian people that
would lead to the establishment of the Rapp Road community.
“This
is where the story becomes very different, very unique,”
Dickson enthuses. “These particular people said, ‘We’re
from the rural South; we don’t like the city.’ You know,
they had to go to the store to buy food, they had to go
to the store to buy clothes and everything else they needed.
They were in culture shock. [In Mississippi] they had raised
their own food, they had made their own clothes. So, they
said, ‘We’re going to go back to the rural South, and do
whatever it is we have to do.’ ”
After a pause, Dickson delivers the kicker: “And Elder Parson
said, ‘OK, you stay here. I will find you that exact same
thing here.’ ”
In the New York State Museum’s Crossroads gallery, Bound
for the Promised Land: Albany’s Rapp Road Community takes
up just a small nook between the enormous aerial shot of
New York City and the impressive set of the Dreaming
of Timbuctoo exhibit, which chronicles a long-gone African-American
settlement in the Adirondacks. Spotlit on white walls, a
series of narrative panels and photographs depicts the 70-year
history of the community: There’s a grainy snapshot from
the ’50s of community member Ralph McCann being baptised
in the Hudson River by Elder Parson’s successor as pastor,
Dr. William Wilborn; there’s a recent photo of one of the
community’s annual family reunions (which, Dickson says,
frequently gather upwards of 300 people); there are also
two shots of startlingly similar houses taken last year.
They’re both bungalow-style homes showing some evidence
of amateur—though skilled—carpentry; each is nestled among
pines shooting up from sandy soil. One is slightly elevated
on small risers; beside the other are the cultivated rows
of an extensive vegetable garden, suggestive of a subsistence
farm. The two are so much of a kind, it’s easy to imagine
that the first home sits just beyond those rows. In reality,
however they’re separated by some 1,300 miles: The former
is a Shubuta home, the latter is one of the Rapp Road residences.
In 1930, Elder Parson delivered on his promise, purchasing
a 14-acre plot in the Northeastern pine barrens we know
as the Pine Bush that reproduced for his congregation the
feeling of their rural homes in Mississippi. He sold off
the land in parcels in order to pay back the borrowed purchase
price ($400, plus interest), a practice his wife continued
after his death in 1940. Between 1938 and 1963, 23 families
bought properties along Rapp Road; today, the community
is still inhabited by 18 of those original 23 families.
Despite increasing pressure from developers, the community
has by and large managed to preserve its integrity (so far,
they have lost only two plots to Pyramid Co., owners of
Crossgates Mall). And Emma Dickson says that it is common
practice for the younger members of the neighborhood to
move back to Rapp Road, after youthful excursions, whenever
houses become available. She herself returned after living
in Detroit and downtown Albany; and her sister lives next
door in the house they grew up in, the second house built
on the property by their parents. That trend, and the election
in 2002 of the Rapp Road Community to the state and national
registries of historic districts, offers Dickson and other
residents hope for the neighborhood’s future vitality.
Though the homes lining Rapp Road may never become a tourist
destination on the scale of colonial Williamsburg, though
motorists with full tanks may still hurtle through without
slowing, and though some viewers may miss the small exhibit
around the corner from the display of the tragic debris
of Sept. 11 currently showing at the state museum, Dickson
says she, Lemack and the community have accomplished something
important by gaining those official designations.
Citing homes once located on the far side of Washington
Avenue Extension where Crossgates Mall’s upper parking lot
now sits, Dickson says, “After the Miller house was gone,
I realized that someday they’re going to be saying, ‘We
think there used to be houses over there.’ That’s
when I began to think that if we don’t do something definite,
soon and positive about this community it is going to disappear.
I didn’t want that to happen. I didn’t want this community
to be just a rumor.”
“Now,
it’s documented,” she affirms. “It’s there, it’s on the
register. There is no saying, ‘Maybe it was there.’ There
is no maybe.”