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Recently reviewed restaurants:

Appian Way Restaurant, 1839 Van Vranken Ave., Schenectady, 393-8460. The areaís finest traditional Italian fare, from a kitchen where everything is made from scratch and boasts the compelling flavors to prove that. Serving dinner Wed-Sun 5-closing. AE, MC, V.

Daikon, 236 Washington St., Saratoga Springs, 583-9175. Japanese fusion cooking means that youíll find risotto and portobellos among the not-so-traditional Asian fare, with brilliant result. Serving dinner Wed-Sun 5-close. AE, MC, V.

DeJohnís Restaurant & Pub, 288 Lark St., Albany, 465-5275. The Phoenix of Lulu, reborn as a cheerful fine-dining spot with a more casual bar on the first floor. A concise, well-chosen menu offers something for everyone. Serving dinner Sun-Thu 4-11, Fri-Sat 4-midnight. Sunday brunch 11-3. AE, MC, V.

The Trillium, The Sagamore, 110 Sagamore Road, Bolton Landing, 1-800-358-3585 or 644-9400. Contemporary American cuisine at its best, with fresh seasonal ingredients imaginatively prepared by chef Tony DeStratis, and service thatís as graceful and elegant as it gets. Serving dinner Mon-Sat 6-9. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Chariotís Restaurant at Saratoga Gaming and Raceway, Crescent Ave., Saratoga Springs, 584-2110, ext. 5790. A buffet is the usual order of the day here, where speed, not food, seems to be the priority. Serving lunch Wed-Sat 10-3:30, dinner Wed-Sat 3:30-closing, Sun 3-closing. Sunday brunch buffet 11-3. AE, D, MC, V.

Lo Porto Ristorante Caffe, 85 4th St., Troy, 273-8546. Classic northern Italian fare in a fine-dining setting; itís fresh and cooked to order, and the restaurant remains a Troy fine-dining beacon. Serving dinner Tue-Sat 5-10 (July-Aug: Thu-Sat 5-10). AE, D, MC, V.

Tandoor Palace, 423 Madison (at Lark), Albany, 463-4123. Your standard menu of Indian-Pakistani cuisine at lower-than-usual prices, with a lunch buffet served daily. Serving Mon-Thu 11-10:30, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11, Sun noon-10. D, MC, V.

The Barefoot Gypsy Bistro, 342 Delaware Ave., Albany, 462-7876. Gourmet appetizers, deli sandwiches, elegant dinners and amazing desserts. And the Spectrum is two blocks away. What more do you need? Serving lunch Tue-Fri 11-2, dinner Tue-Thu 5-9, Fri-Sat 5-9:30. AE, D, MC, V.

Cornellís, 39-45 N. Jay St., Schenectady, 370-3825. A longtime favorite has moved to new quarters as part of Schenectadyís new Little Italy; the food is as excellent as ever. Serving lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2, dinner Tue-Thu 5-9:30, Fri 5-10, Sat 4-10:30, Sun 4-9:30. AE, MC, V.

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