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Food & Drink

Latham Underground

by B.A. Nilsson October 31, 2013

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  The Grape and Growler, 155 wade Rd., Latham, 783-8000, grapeandgrowler.com. Serving 11-10 Mon-Wed, 11-2 Thu-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: pub fare Entreé price range: $6 (Caesar salad) to $18 (meat-lover’s pizza) Ambiance: excitable pub We entered to a ...

More Than Friendly

by B.A. Nilsson October 24, 2013

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Istanblue Mediterranean Cuisine, 68 Congress St., Saratoga Springs, 581-0181, istanbluemediterranean.com. Serving lunch 1-3 Mon-Fri, dinner 11-11 daily. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Turkish-Mediterranean Entrée price range: $14 (vegetable sauté) to $29 (mixed grill) Ambiance: improbably charming There’s ...

Delicious Contradiction

by B.A. Nilsson October 16, 2013

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  Helsinki Hudson, 405 Columbia St., Hudson, 828-4800, helsinkihudson.com. Serving dinner 5-10 daily. D, MC, V. Cuisine: Southern-inspired farm-to-table Entrée price range: $12 (sake-steamed mussels) to $27 (Porterhouse steak frites) Ambiance: warehouse-glam Contradictions are the spice of daily experience, and ...

1 comment

Secret Fishing Hole

by B.A. Nilsson October 9, 2013

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  The Angry Penguin Tavern, 41 Broad St, Waterford, 237-2829. Serving 1-Midnight Tue-Sat, 3-8 Sun. D, MC, V. Cuisine: pub fare Entrée price range: $4.25 (grilled cheese) to $14 (fish and chips) Ambiance: English pub After fighting bumper-to-bumper Waterford traffic—it ...

1 comment

Take It to the Graveyard

by B.A. Nilsson October 3, 2013

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  Wagon Train BBQ, 671 Mariaville Road, Rotterdam, 356-0650. wagontrainbbq.net. Serving 11-8 Sun-Mon, Wed-Thu, 11-9 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: barbecue and burgers Entrée price range: $7 (burger with fries) to $18.25 (huge pork-brisket-ribs combo) Ambiance: cheerfully overdecorated About ...

Field to Griddle

by Amy Halloran September 25, 2013

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  “A workshop on pancakes? Everyone knows how to make pancakes,” a woman said, shaking her head. “What’s there to learn?” I was at the From Scratch Club booth at the Homegrown Skills Tent at Farm Aid ...

Local Farm and Food Directory

by The Staff September 19, 2013

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  Bakeries All Good Bakers, 540 Delaware Ave., Albany, 463-1349, allgoodbakers.weebly.com. Albany’s farm-to-bakery café, featuring locally sourced sandwich and specialty breads and pastries. CSA shares available. Bella-Napoli Italian Bakery, 672 New Loudon Road, Latham, 783-0196; 721 River St., ...

Peru for You

by B.A. Nilsson September 11, 2013

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  La Empanda Llama, 26B Picotte Dr., Albany, 915-1887, laempanadallama.com. Serving Tue-Sat 11-8. AE, D, MC, V.  Cuisine: Peruvian Entrée price range: $7 (La Empanada Llama salad) to $13 (beef stir-fry) Ambiance: muy informal Consider the food that you ...

Annual Manual: Cheap Eats, Fine Dining and Coffee Bars

by The Staff September 5, 2013

  Cheap Eats American The Albany Pump Station 19 Quackenbush Square, Albany, 447-9000. This downtown Albany brew pub offers a vast array of American fare. The menu features a large offering of soups, salads and sandwiches. Full bar, ...

Knife, Eggs, Beer

by B.A. Nilsson September 4, 2013

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  There’s a horrible moment that occurs early in the academic year as your schedule comes together and you’ve made sense of the travel required to get from class to class and the time those classes ...

A Simple Surprise

by B.A. Nilsson August 28, 2013

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  Viola’s Café, 947 New Loudon Road, Latham, 786-9800. Serving breakfast 8:30-11 Mon-Fri, lunch 11-3 Mon-Fri. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: sandwiches and salads Entrée price range: $6 (classic BLT) to $7.50 (Cuban pork sandwich) Ambiance: hotel lunchroom When you’ve ...

Farm-to-Table Forever

by B.A. Nilsson August 22, 2013

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  John Andrews Farmhouse Restaurant, 224 Hillsdale Road, So. Egremont, MA, 413-528-3469, jarestaurant.com. Serving dinner 5-9 Sun-Tue, Thu, 5-10 Sat-Sun. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: American harvest Entreé price range: $22 (Ricotta gnocchi) to $35 (grass-fed ribeye) Ambiance: rustic elegance The ...

The Irish Way

by B.A. Nilsson August 15, 2013

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  Finnbar’s Pub, 452 Broadway, Troy, 326-3994. Serving 3-10 Mon-Thu, 3-11 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: gourmet Irish pub Entrée price range: $6 (chicken goojons) to $14 (Irish stew) Ambiance: classic Irish Pub The degree of craziness depends on ...

1 comment

Bad Food, Good Food

by Amy Halloran August 7, 2013

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  Foods fall in and out of favor, spun on the wheel of nutritional roulette. Name your villain: salt, fat, red meat, and now, thanks to arsenic traces, even rice. Carbs came under fire in the early ...

3 comments

Blue All Over

by Amy Halloran August 1, 2013

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  “Here’s a dragonfly for you, come see,” a grandmother called to her granddaughter in Schuylerville at the Winney Farm. The family was picking blueberries on a bright Wednesday morning. The sun was hot but not ...

In the Pot

by B.A. Nilsson July 31, 2013

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  Shining Rainbow Restaurant, 209 Central Ave., Albany, 396-3881, shiningrainbow.com. Serving 11-10:30 Sun-Thu, 11-11 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Chinese and Japanese Entrée price range: $7.50 (broccoli with garlic sauce) to $17 (Beijing duck) Ambiance: small but comfortable Szechuan ...

Best of Food

by The Staff July 24, 2013

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  Best Restaurant Café Capriccio 49 Grand St., Albany A year-after-year choice that pleases us with its ineffable rightness. Along with its northern sibling, Capriccio Saratoga, we marvel at the culinary skill of chef Franco Rua as he continues ...

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Adventures in Taste

by B.A. Nilsson July 18, 2013

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Two types of fancy foods dominate the Fancy Food Show: stuff you can make and stuff you can’t (or shouldn’t). In the former category are items that require creativity, like sauces and pastries; the latter ...

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Family By Any Name

by B.A. Nilsson July 10, 2013

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  155 Delaware Ave., Delmar, 475-7777, mercatosrestaurant.com. Serving lunch 11:30-2:30 daily, dinner 2:30-9. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: traditional Italian Entrée price range: $11 (pasta with marinara) to $19 (haddock gorgonzola) Ambiance: traditional Italian It’s an unlikely enough story to ...

1 comment Mercato’s Pizzeria and Restaurant

Molto Hip

by B.A. Nilsson July 3, 2013

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Mission Bar + Tapas, 438 North St., Pittsfield, Mass., no phone, missionbarandtapas.com. Open daily noon-midnight, Sunday brunch at unspecified hours. Accepts credit cards. Cuisine: American tapas Entrée price range: $7 (chicken croquettes) to $15 (cider-glazed pork ribs) Ambiance: ...

Fine Dining as Theater

by B.A. Nilsson June 26, 2013

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  The Bocuse Restaurant, Culinary Institute of America, 1946 Campus Dr., Hyde Park, 845-471-6608, ciarestaurants.com. Serving lunch 11:30–1 Tue-Sat (when classes are in session), dinner 6–8:30 Tue-Sat (ditto). AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: contemporary French-inspired Entrée price range: ...

1 comment

Mission Accomplished

by B.A. Nilsson June 13, 2013

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  Cella Bistro, 2015 Rosa Road, Schenectady, 381-2080, cellabistro.com. Serving dinner 5-9 Tue-Thu, 5-10 Fri-Sat. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: Italian-flavored continental Entrée price range: $20 (pasta Bolognese) to $28 (duck breast), plus lower-priced tapas Ambiance: casual and intimate The two ...

Grunt Work

by B.A. Nilsson June 5, 2013

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  There’s a primal satisfaction in a meal of smoked meats. Your ribs, your brisket, your pulled pork—such Deep South staples have at last fully infiltrated the North, if the local efflorescence of barbecue joints is ...

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More Than a Buzzword

by Amy Halloran June 5, 2013

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  There’s a commercial that makes a supermarket seem as enticing as a day at the beach. The produce is glamorously lit and the shopper is invited to dream of dinner as if each meal is ...

3 comments

Choice Cuts

by Amy Halloran May 29, 2013

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  In the walk-in cooler, eight sides of lamb hang on a sturdy metal cart. The split carcasses almost look like heavy dresses, ready for a seamstress to hem. Or maybe this comparison is just the ...