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Food & Drink

Family Dinner

by B.A. Nilsson January 15, 2014

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  The Table at Fort Plain, 70 Canal Street, Fort Plain, 993-8065, thetableatfortplain.com. Serving lunch 11:30-3 Wed-Fri, dinner 5-9 Tue-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: inventive Continental Entrée price range: $16 (baked sole) to $19 (grilled strip steak) Ambiance: ...

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Tropical Vacation

by B.A. Nilsson January 9, 2014

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  Casa Domenicana, 260 Central Ave., Albany, 427-1290, CasaDomenicanaRestaurant.com. Serving noon-10 Mon-Fri, 1-10 Sat. MC, V. Cuisine: Domenican Entreé price range: $8.25 (grilled chicken sandwich) to $16 (fried shrimp) Ambiance: small and casual Hector Marmol spent many years running restaurants ...

Smokin’ Good Food

by B.A. Nilsson January 2, 2014

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  Aladdin’s Restaurant and Hookah Lounge, 4740 State Highway 30, Amsterdam, 212-5615, aladdinshookahlounge.com. Serving 3-11 Mon-Thu, 3-midnight Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Middle Eastern Entrée price range: $6.50 (soujuk sandwich) to $12 (falafel, moutabal and hummus platter) Ambiance: ...

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Best Restaurants 2013: B.A. Nilsson

by B.A. Nilsson December 24, 2013

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  Every restaurant visit I make is built upon a level of expectation I try to fashion from clues that lurk in menu and decor. Which is why a humble diner can receive a rave akin ...

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Dressing the International Table

by B.A. Nilsson December 19, 2013

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  We in the United States may be among those who lay out the most excessive Christmas dinners. The British were recently cited as the worst in Europe by health app-maker Lifesum, because they typically consume ...

A Rising Interest

by B.A. Nilsson December 11, 2013

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  It’s difficult to find a true loaf of whole-wheat bread. Most of what passes for it uses some manner of refined flour, and refined sugar activates the yeast. My daughter wisely has chosen a diet ...

When Harry Met Louis

by B.A. Nilsson December 4, 2013

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  The new general manager lowered the lights in the tavern space he created. The new mixologist brought in a line of New York-crafted beers. And the new chef is reading the Iliad. Thus has Athos ...

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Garden to Kitchen

by B.A. Nilsson November 26, 2013

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  You’ll find cookbooks among this year’s crop that are exclusively vegetarian, but I’ve found some that have such good meatless offerings among the varied recipes that they’re worth considering for more insights into the vegetarian ...

Know Your Bean

by Erin Pihlaja November 13, 2013

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     “Fifty people in a room in the Capital Region, drinking coffee—black coffee,” Ron Grieco laughs, “for someone who works in a coffee shop that’s unheard of.” Grieco is the manager of both Albany Tierra Coffee ...

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Miss Utica

by B.A. Nilsson November 13, 2013

  Sciortino’s, 893 Broadway, Albany, 465-9148, sciortinospizzeria.com. Serving 11-10 Tue-Wed, 11-11 Thu, 11-1 Fri-Sat. D, MC, V. Cuisine: pizza and wings and riggies Entrée price range: $11 (spaghetti and meatballs) to $17 (sausage and peppers pizza) Ambiance: classic diner There ...

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Holy Mole

by B.A. Nilsson November 6, 2013

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  The Point Café, 964 Helderberg Ave., Schenectady, 395-9717. Serving 7 AM-9 PM Mon-Sat, 7-3 Sun. D, MC, V. Cuisine: Mexican, Italian, American Entrée price range: $1.45 (hot dog) to $15 (Point Café steak) Ambiance: dineresque One of the great ...

A Better Cup

by Erin Pihlaja October 31, 2013

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  She looks like she's praying, this young woman, as she grasps the cup in both of her hands and brings it in to her face. Hands touch each other and then form a seal against ...

Latham Underground

by B.A. Nilsson October 31, 2013

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  The Grape and Growler, 155 wade Rd., Latham, 783-8000, grapeandgrowler.com. Serving 11-10 Mon-Wed, 11-2 Thu-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: pub fare Entreé price range: $6 (Caesar salad) to $18 (meat-lover’s pizza) Ambiance: excitable pub We entered to a ...

More Than Friendly

by B.A. Nilsson October 24, 2013

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Istanblue Mediterranean Cuisine, 68 Congress St., Saratoga Springs, 581-0181, istanbluemediterranean.com. Serving lunch 1-3 Mon-Fri, dinner 11-11 daily. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Turkish-Mediterranean Entrée price range: $14 (vegetable sauté) to $29 (mixed grill) Ambiance: improbably charming There’s ...

Delicious Contradiction

by B.A. Nilsson October 16, 2013

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  Helsinki Hudson, 405 Columbia St., Hudson, 828-4800, helsinkihudson.com. Serving dinner 5-10 daily. D, MC, V. Cuisine: Southern-inspired farm-to-table Entrée price range: $12 (sake-steamed mussels) to $27 (Porterhouse steak frites) Ambiance: warehouse-glam Contradictions are the spice of daily experience, and ...

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Secret Fishing Hole

by B.A. Nilsson October 9, 2013

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  The Angry Penguin Tavern, 41 Broad St, Waterford, 237-2829. Serving 1-Midnight Tue-Sat, 3-8 Sun. D, MC, V. Cuisine: pub fare Entrée price range: $4.25 (grilled cheese) to $14 (fish and chips) Ambiance: English pub After fighting bumper-to-bumper Waterford traffic—it ...

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Take It to the Graveyard

by B.A. Nilsson October 3, 2013

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  Wagon Train BBQ, 671 Mariaville Road, Rotterdam, 356-0650. wagontrainbbq.net. Serving 11-8 Sun-Mon, Wed-Thu, 11-9 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: barbecue and burgers Entrée price range: $7 (burger with fries) to $18.25 (huge pork-brisket-ribs combo) Ambiance: cheerfully overdecorated About ...

Field to Griddle

by Amy Halloran September 25, 2013

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  “A workshop on pancakes? Everyone knows how to make pancakes,” a woman said, shaking her head. “What’s there to learn?” I was at the From Scratch Club booth at the Homegrown Skills Tent at Farm Aid ...

Local Farm and Food Directory

by The Staff September 19, 2013

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  Bakeries All Good Bakers, 540 Delaware Ave., Albany, 463-1349, allgoodbakers.weebly.com. Albany’s farm-to-bakery café, featuring locally sourced sandwich and specialty breads and pastries. CSA shares available. Bella-Napoli Italian Bakery, 672 New Loudon Road, Latham, 783-0196; 721 River St., ...

Peru for You

by B.A. Nilsson September 11, 2013

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  La Empanda Llama, 26B Picotte Dr., Albany, 915-1887, laempanadallama.com. Serving Tue-Sat 11-8. AE, D, MC, V.  Cuisine: Peruvian Entrée price range: $7 (La Empanada Llama salad) to $13 (beef stir-fry) Ambiance: muy informal Consider the food that you ...

Annual Manual: Cheap Eats, Fine Dining and Coffee Bars

by The Staff September 5, 2013

  Cheap Eats American The Albany Pump Station 19 Quackenbush Square, Albany, 447-9000. This downtown Albany brew pub offers a vast array of American fare. The menu features a large offering of soups, salads and sandwiches. Full bar, ...

Knife, Eggs, Beer

by B.A. Nilsson September 4, 2013

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  There’s a horrible moment that occurs early in the academic year as your schedule comes together and you’ve made sense of the travel required to get from class to class and the time those classes ...

A Simple Surprise

by B.A. Nilsson August 28, 2013

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  Viola’s Café, 947 New Loudon Road, Latham, 786-9800. Serving breakfast 8:30-11 Mon-Fri, lunch 11-3 Mon-Fri. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: sandwiches and salads Entrée price range: $6 (classic BLT) to $7.50 (Cuban pork sandwich) Ambiance: hotel lunchroom When you’ve ...

Farm-to-Table Forever

by B.A. Nilsson August 22, 2013

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  John Andrews Farmhouse Restaurant, 224 Hillsdale Road, So. Egremont, MA, 413-528-3469, jarestaurant.com. Serving dinner 5-9 Sun-Tue, Thu, 5-10 Sat-Sun. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: American harvest Entreé price range: $22 (Ricotta gnocchi) to $35 (grass-fed ribeye) Ambiance: rustic elegance The ...

The Irish Way

by B.A. Nilsson August 15, 2013

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  Finnbar’s Pub, 452 Broadway, Troy, 326-3994. Serving 3-10 Mon-Thu, 3-11 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: gourmet Irish pub Entrée price range: $6 (chicken goojons) to $14 (Irish stew) Ambiance: classic Irish Pub The degree of craziness depends on ...

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