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Food Review

No Membership Necessary

by B.A. Nilsson February 9, 2012


Grille One Six Five at the Normanside Country Club, 150 Salisbury Road, Delmar, 439-4505 ext. 19, normanside.com. Serving lunch 11-3 Tue-Sun, dinner 3-8 Tue-Thu, 3-9 Fri-Sat, 3-6 Sun. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: thoughtful continental Entrée price range: ...

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A Secret Worth Sharing

by B.A. Nilsson February 2, 2012

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Peter Pause Restaurant, 535 Nott St., Schenectady, 382-9278. Serving breakfast and lunch 6-2 Mon-Fri. Cash only. Cuisine: Italian diner Entrée price range: $2 (single pancake) to $9 (antipasto) Ambiance: homey “You live in Schenectady and you don’t know Peter ...

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The American Mexican

by B.A. Nilsson January 25, 2012

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La Fiesta, 1610 Central Ave., Albany, 482-3940, lafiestamexican.com. Serving lunch 11-3 Mon-Sat, noon-3 Sun, dinner 11-9 Mon-Wed, 11-10 Thu-Sat, noon-9 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Mexican-American Entrée price range: $7.75 (grilled chicken salad) to $17 (fajitas ...

Patties on Parade

by B.A. Nilsson January 19, 2012


Who first served the sandwich of cooked ground beef on a bun? Plenty of claimants vie for the title. Although the idea of serving chopped, seasoned meat products has a basis in Germany’s Hamburg, here ...

It’s in the Broth

by B.A. Nilsson January 12, 2012

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Phơ Yum, 1558 Central Ave., Albany, 869-9866, pho-yum.com. Serving 11-9:30 Tue-Thu, 11-10 Fri-Sat, 11-9 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Vietnamese Entrée price range: $6.25 (bánh mì, a sandwich) to $10 (phơ with three meats) Ambiance: spartan Some form ...

The Edible 2011

by B.A. Nilsson January 5, 2012


The challenge of putting together a series of restaurant reviews lies in presenting a series of places that vary in location, ethnicity and price. Put an endless succession of high-priced places in front of you ...

Comfort on Curry Row

by B.A. Nilsson December 21, 2011


Jewel of India, 187 Lark St., Albany, 512-5600, jewelonlark.com. Serving dinner 11-11 daily, lunch buffet 11-3 daily. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Indian Entrée price range: $8 (chana dal masala, many others) to $15 (tandoor salmon) Ambiance: pleasant ...

Looking Past the Cookies

by B.A. Nilsson December 14, 2011


Norway needs butter. The country’s consumption of it has increased this year because of a surge in fat-laden, low-carb diets, and last month’s butter demand was up 30 percent over the same period last year. ...

The Comfort of Family

by B.A. Nilsson December 8, 2011


Minissale’s Wine Cellar Café, 1 14th St, Troy, 274-6225, minissaleswinecellarcafe.com. Serving dinner 5-9 Wed-Thu, 5-10 Fri-Sat, 4-9 Sun. D, MC, V. Cuisine: Italian Entrée price range: $7 (small cheese pizza) to $20 (veal Marsala) Ambiance: your mom’s dining ...

Eastern Swing

by B.A. Nilsson December 1, 2011

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Phila Fusion Asian Restaurant and Bar, 54 Phila St., Saratoga Springs, 226-0400, philafusion.com. Serving lunch 11:30-3 Mon-Sun, dinner 5-10 Sun-Thu, 5-10:30 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: pan-Asian Entrée price range: $12 (noodle soup) to $20 (sea ...

Let’s Do the Time Warp

by B.A. Nilsson November 22, 2011


Don and Paul’s Coffee Shoppe, 68 Broad St, Waterford, 233-1040. Serving daily 6 AM-9 PM. MC, V. Cuisine: all-American Entrée price range: $1.70 (burger with chips) to $11 (scallops dinner) Ambiance: a little gossip, a little chat If you ...

Bordeaux in the Burbs

by B.A. Nilsson November 16, 2011


The Epicurean, Latham Farms Mall, 579 Troy-Schenectady Road, Latham, 786-8272, epicurean-ny.com. Serving lunch 11-4 Tue-Sat, dinner 5-9 Tue-Wed, 5-10 Thu-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: French Entrée price range: $12 (Beggar’s Purse with ricotta & prosciutto, small ...

The Real Moussaka

by B.A. Nilsson October 27, 2011

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The Greek House, 27 Third St., Troy, 272-6058, thegreekhouse.net. Serving 11-9 Mon-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Greek Entrée price range: $6.50 (veggie gyro) to $18.50 (grilled marinated lamb shanks) Ambiance: storefront What constitutes authentic? It’s one of the ...

Bakers’ Square

by Amy Halloran October 20, 2011


On a bright, warm September Sunday, people stroll and shop amid the ring of tents and vendors that constitute the farmers market in the park behind Hubbard Hall in Cambridge. Some of them wander over ...

Under the Tuscan Sunset

by B.A. Nilsson October 13, 2011

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Ca’ Mea Ristorante, 333 Warren St., Hudson, 822-0005, camearestaurant.com. Serving lunch noon-3 Tue-Sun, dinner 5-10 Tue-Sat, 5-9 Sun. AE, MC, D, V Cuisine: Northern Italian Entrée price range: $17 (spinach-ricotta ravioli) to $25 (New York strip) Ambiance: charming, ...

For the Love of a Gadget

by B.A. Nilsson October 6, 2011


Earlier this year, the BBC aired a TV feature in which Stephen Fry looked at what he considers to be the hundred greatest gadgets ever invented. Not surprisingly, quite a few of them involved the ...

Retro Contemporary

by B.A. Nilsson September 28, 2011


The Standard, 1 Crossgates Mall Road, Albany, 452-7007, standardalbany.com. Serving 11-11 Sun-Thu, 11-Midnight Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: mix of old and new Entrée price range: $9 (chop-house burger) to $34 (Standard bone-in beef filet) Ambiance: Prefab ...

Be Amazed

by B.A. Nilsson September 15, 2011


Sushi X Lounge, 710 New Loudon Road, Latham, 713-4102, sushixlounge.com. Serving lunch 11:30-4 Mon-Fri, dinner 11:30-10 Mon-Thu, 11:30-11 Fri-Sat, noon-10 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Japanese Entrée price range: $20 (Mon-Thu), $22 (Fri-Sun) Ambiance: colorfully unique Picture your ...

The Chips Are Up

by B.A. Nilsson September 7, 2011


Lil’ Britain, 116 North St., Bennington, Vt., 802-442-2447, lilbritain.com. Serving 11:30-8 Tue-Sat. D, MC, V. Cuisine: classic pub fare Entreé price range: $4 (chip butty) to $11 (seafood combo & chips) Ambiance: bright and friendly London’s first fish-and-chips shop ...

Hamming It Up

by B.A. Nilsson August 31, 2011


Panzur Restaurant and Wine Bar, 69 Broadway, Tivoli, 845-757-1071, panzur.com. Serving dinner 5:30-9 Tue-Thu, 5:30-10 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Spanish-inspired modern Entrée price range: $8 (tortilla Espanola) to $23 (New York strip) Ambiance: artistic bistro There’s evidence ...

A Rare Cut

by B.A. Nilsson August 25, 2011


The Raindancer Restaurant, 4582 State Highway 30, Amsterdam, 842-2606, raindancerrestaurant.com. Serving 11:30-close Mon-Sat, 12:30-close Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: American steakhouse Entrée price range: $9 (Raindancer burger) to $40 (king crab legs) Ambiance: charmingly rustic In my neck ...

A Summer Tradition

by B.A. Nilsson August 10, 2011


If you live in, grew up near or frequently visit the Burden Lake area, you’re already nodding your head in anticipation of a good review of a place you revere. That’s what it is. That’s ...

Puppy Love

by B.A. Nilsson August 3, 2011

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Summer in Saratoga: It’s a gamble. Will there be a parking space? Can you tolerate such a crush of hoi polloi? Will you find a seat at a restaurant? Once there, can you get service? ...

New Life

by B.A. Nilsson July 27, 2011


Chubby Sperry was a Saratoga fixture in the 1930s, a racehorse owner who also characterized the social scene as Prohibition drew to a close. While I’m in no position to affirm what his namesake restaurant ...

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Simply Delicious

by Laura Leon July 6, 2011


Tucked toward the back of a pedestrian alley (in what locals call “the mews”) next to the more grandiose Red Lion Inn is a small gem of a restaurant called Once Upon a Table. With ...