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Food Review

The Edible 2011

by B.A. Nilsson January 5, 2012

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The challenge of putting together a series of restaurant reviews lies in presenting a series of places that vary in location, ethnicity and price. Put an endless succession of high-priced places in front of you ...

Comfort on Curry Row

by B.A. Nilsson December 21, 2011

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Jewel of India, 187 Lark St., Albany, 512-5600, jewelonlark.com. Serving dinner 11-11 daily, lunch buffet 11-3 daily. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Indian Entrée price range: $8 (chana dal masala, many others) to $15 (tandoor salmon) Ambiance: pleasant ...

Looking Past the Cookies

by B.A. Nilsson December 14, 2011

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Norway needs butter. The country’s consumption of it has increased this year because of a surge in fat-laden, low-carb diets, and last month’s butter demand was up 30 percent over the same period last year. ...

The Comfort of Family

by B.A. Nilsson December 8, 2011

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Minissale’s Wine Cellar Café, 1 14th St, Troy, 274-6225, minissaleswinecellarcafe.com. Serving dinner 5-9 Wed-Thu, 5-10 Fri-Sat, 4-9 Sun. D, MC, V. Cuisine: Italian Entrée price range: $7 (small cheese pizza) to $20 (veal Marsala) Ambiance: your mom’s dining ...

Eastern Swing

by B.A. Nilsson December 1, 2011

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Phila Fusion Asian Restaurant and Bar, 54 Phila St., Saratoga Springs, 226-0400, philafusion.com. Serving lunch 11:30-3 Mon-Sun, dinner 5-10 Sun-Thu, 5-10:30 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: pan-Asian Entrée price range: $12 (noodle soup) to $20 (sea ...

Let’s Do the Time Warp

by B.A. Nilsson November 22, 2011

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Don and Paul’s Coffee Shoppe, 68 Broad St, Waterford, 233-1040. Serving daily 6 AM-9 PM. MC, V. Cuisine: all-American Entrée price range: $1.70 (burger with chips) to $11 (scallops dinner) Ambiance: a little gossip, a little chat If you ...

Bordeaux in the Burbs

by B.A. Nilsson November 16, 2011

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The Epicurean, Latham Farms Mall, 579 Troy-Schenectady Road, Latham, 786-8272, epicurean-ny.com. Serving lunch 11-4 Tue-Sat, dinner 5-9 Tue-Wed, 5-10 Thu-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: French Entrée price range: $12 (Beggar’s Purse with ricotta & prosciutto, small ...

The Real Moussaka

by B.A. Nilsson October 27, 2011

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The Greek House, 27 Third St., Troy, 272-6058, thegreekhouse.net. Serving 11-9 Mon-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Greek Entrée price range: $6.50 (veggie gyro) to $18.50 (grilled marinated lamb shanks) Ambiance: storefront What constitutes authentic? It’s one of the ...

Bakers’ Square

by Amy Halloran October 20, 2011

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On a bright, warm September Sunday, people stroll and shop amid the ring of tents and vendors that constitute the farmers market in the park behind Hubbard Hall in Cambridge. Some of them wander over ...

Under the Tuscan Sunset

by B.A. Nilsson October 13, 2011

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Ca’ Mea Ristorante, 333 Warren St., Hudson, 822-0005, camearestaurant.com. Serving lunch noon-3 Tue-Sun, dinner 5-10 Tue-Sat, 5-9 Sun. AE, MC, D, V Cuisine: Northern Italian Entrée price range: $17 (spinach-ricotta ravioli) to $25 (New York strip) Ambiance: charming, ...

For the Love of a Gadget

by B.A. Nilsson October 6, 2011

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Earlier this year, the BBC aired a TV feature in which Stephen Fry looked at what he considers to be the hundred greatest gadgets ever invented. Not surprisingly, quite a few of them involved the ...

Retro Contemporary

by B.A. Nilsson September 28, 2011

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The Standard, 1 Crossgates Mall Road, Albany, 452-7007, standardalbany.com. Serving 11-11 Sun-Thu, 11-Midnight Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: mix of old and new Entrée price range: $9 (chop-house burger) to $34 (Standard bone-in beef filet) Ambiance: Prefab ...

Be Amazed

by B.A. Nilsson September 15, 2011

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Sushi X Lounge, 710 New Loudon Road, Latham, 713-4102, sushixlounge.com. Serving lunch 11:30-4 Mon-Fri, dinner 11:30-10 Mon-Thu, 11:30-11 Fri-Sat, noon-10 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Japanese Entrée price range: $20 (Mon-Thu), $22 (Fri-Sun) Ambiance: colorfully unique Picture your ...

The Chips Are Up

by B.A. Nilsson September 7, 2011

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Lil’ Britain, 116 North St., Bennington, Vt., 802-442-2447, lilbritain.com. Serving 11:30-8 Tue-Sat. D, MC, V. Cuisine: classic pub fare Entreé price range: $4 (chip butty) to $11 (seafood combo & chips) Ambiance: bright and friendly London’s first fish-and-chips shop ...

Hamming It Up

by B.A. Nilsson August 31, 2011

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Panzur Restaurant and Wine Bar, 69 Broadway, Tivoli, 845-757-1071, panzur.com. Serving dinner 5:30-9 Tue-Thu, 5:30-10 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Spanish-inspired modern Entrée price range: $8 (tortilla Espanola) to $23 (New York strip) Ambiance: artistic bistro There’s evidence ...

A Rare Cut

by B.A. Nilsson August 25, 2011

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The Raindancer Restaurant, 4582 State Highway 30, Amsterdam, 842-2606, raindancerrestaurant.com. Serving 11:30-close Mon-Sat, 12:30-close Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: American steakhouse Entrée price range: $9 (Raindancer burger) to $40 (king crab legs) Ambiance: charmingly rustic In my neck ...

A Summer Tradition

by B.A. Nilsson August 10, 2011

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If you live in, grew up near or frequently visit the Burden Lake area, you’re already nodding your head in anticipation of a good review of a place you revere. That’s what it is. That’s ...

Puppy Love

by B.A. Nilsson August 3, 2011

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Summer in Saratoga: It’s a gamble. Will there be a parking space? Can you tolerate such a crush of hoi polloi? Will you find a seat at a restaurant? Once there, can you get service? ...

New Life

by B.A. Nilsson July 27, 2011

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Chubby Sperry was a Saratoga fixture in the 1930s, a racehorse owner who also characterized the social scene as Prohibition drew to a close. While I’m in no position to affirm what his namesake restaurant ...

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Simply Delicious

by Laura Leon July 6, 2011

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Tucked toward the back of a pedestrian alley (in what locals call “the mews”) next to the more grandiose Red Lion Inn is a small gem of a restaurant called Once Upon a Table. With ...

Oven Lovin’

by B.A. Nilsson June 29, 2011

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The oven is an arresting sight. It’s Le Panyol Model 120, if you want to get technical about it, from a French company that dates back to the 1840s and specializes in refractory earthenware products ...

Spring Roll Dynasty

by B.A. Nilsson June 22, 2011

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We were waiting for spring rolls. Not any spring rolls, but the legendary ones we all discovered at Kim’s Dragon, a wonderful Vietnamese restaurant on Route 20 heading into ...

Mediteroccan Logic

by B.A. Nilsson June 15, 2011

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Fez is the nearly two-year-old brainchild of chef Niels Nielsen, whose Albany tie-in is a stint he served as chef at New World Bistro Bar when it opened. But he’s also been in the Saugerties-area ...

For the Whole Gang

by B.A. Nilsson June 8, 2011

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Sometimes you turn a corner and lose most of your bearings. It could be a plaza in a foreign country where you don’t recognize the dialect spoken around you. Or ...

Chicken Riot

by B.A. Nilsson May 25, 2011

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"Pio pio” is what a Spanish chick says, as you know if you’ve joined the United Farm Workers Union in singing “De Colores.” It would translate as “cheep cheep,” which isn’t so evocative as a ...

Mr. Pio-Pio