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Food Review

Not-So-Little Italy

by B.A. Nilsson April 12, 2012

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Eataly, 200 Fifth Ave., Manhattan, 212-229-2560, eatalyny.com. Serving times vary by restaurant, but generally are 11–10 Mon-Sat, 11-9:30 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: molto Italiano Ambiance: bustling Entrée price range: $11 (insalate tricolore at la Piazza) to ...

The Unsinkable Burger Stand

by B.A. Nilsson April 4, 2012

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Jumpin’ Jack’s Drive-In, Collins Park, 393-6101, jumpinjacksdriveininc.com. Serving daily 11-9:30. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: burgers and fries Entrée price range: Do you care? All right: $2 (hot dog) to $9.50 (shrimp dinner) Ambiance: al fresco   Among the horrifying images ...

2 comments Jumpin' Jacks

A Tale of Two Capriccios

by B.A. Nilsson March 29, 2012

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From the start, Capriccio Saratoga was envisioned as the Southern Italian counterpart to its sister establishment, Albany’s Café Capriccio. The Saratoga Springs eatery opened last summer just as that city’s racetrack madness roared to life, ...

Sushi Rendezvous

by B.A. Nilsson March 22, 2012

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Mr. Fuji, Stuyvesant Plaza, 1475 Western Ave., Albany, 269-3999, mrfujisushi.com. Serving lunch 11-3 Mon-Fri, dinner 3-10:30 Mon-Thu, 3-11 Fri, 11-11 Sat, noon-10 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Japanese Entrée price range: $9.50 (zaru soba) to $30.50 ...

Brisket Heaven

by B.A. Nilsson March 15, 2012

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The line on the sidewalk outside of Schwartz’s Delicatessen stretched for half a block, peopled two or three abreast. It was five o’clock on a Saturday afternoon. “They line up like this even when it ...

Sunday Special

by B.A. Nilsson March 8, 2012

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Schenectady Greenmarket, Proctors, 432 State St., Schenectady, schenectadygreenmarket.org. Open 10-2 Sunday. Cash is most reliable. Through April 29. I went looking for root vegetables and a loaf of bread. I found the greatest Sunday brunch venue ...

Serving the Neighborhood

by B.A. Nilsson March 1, 2012

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The Ugly Rooster Café, 159 North Main St., Mechanicville, 664-2769, uglyroostercafe.com. Serving breakfast and lunch 6-3 Mon-Fri, 7-3 Sat-Sun. MC, V. Cuisine: from-scratch diner Entrée price range: $3.25 (two eggs with home fries and toast) to $7.25 ...

Homegrown and Self-Taught

by B.A. Nilsson February 23, 2012

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The Hungry Fish, 461 Main Ave., Wynantskill, 874-4573, thehungryfishcafe.com. Serving breakfast and lunch 8-8 Mon-Sat, 8-3 Sun; dinner 4-8 Thu-Sat. MC, V. Cuisine: lunchroom eclectic Entrée price range: $5 (egg and cheese on a hard roll) to ...

1 comment

No Membership Necessary

by B.A. Nilsson February 9, 2012

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Grille One Six Five at the Normanside Country Club, 150 Salisbury Road, Delmar, 439-4505 ext. 19, normanside.com. Serving lunch 11-3 Tue-Sun, dinner 3-8 Tue-Thu, 3-9 Fri-Sat, 3-6 Sun. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: thoughtful continental Entrée price range: ...

1 comment

A Secret Worth Sharing

by B.A. Nilsson February 2, 2012

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Peter Pause Restaurant, 535 Nott St., Schenectady, 382-9278. Serving breakfast and lunch 6-2 Mon-Fri. Cash only. Cuisine: Italian diner Entrée price range: $2 (single pancake) to $9 (antipasto) Ambiance: homey “You live in Schenectady and you don’t know Peter ...

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The American Mexican

by B.A. Nilsson January 25, 2012

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La Fiesta, 1610 Central Ave., Albany, 482-3940, lafiestamexican.com. Serving lunch 11-3 Mon-Sat, noon-3 Sun, dinner 11-9 Mon-Wed, 11-10 Thu-Sat, noon-9 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Mexican-American Entrée price range: $7.75 (grilled chicken salad) to $17 (fajitas ...

Patties on Parade

by B.A. Nilsson January 19, 2012

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Who first served the sandwich of cooked ground beef on a bun? Plenty of claimants vie for the title. Although the idea of serving chopped, seasoned meat products has a basis in Germany’s Hamburg, here ...

It’s in the Broth

by B.A. Nilsson January 12, 2012

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Phơ Yum, 1558 Central Ave., Albany, 869-9866, pho-yum.com. Serving 11-9:30 Tue-Thu, 11-10 Fri-Sat, 11-9 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Vietnamese Entrée price range: $6.25 (bánh mì, a sandwich) to $10 (phơ with three meats) Ambiance: spartan Some form ...

The Edible 2011

by B.A. Nilsson January 5, 2012

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The challenge of putting together a series of restaurant reviews lies in presenting a series of places that vary in location, ethnicity and price. Put an endless succession of high-priced places in front of you ...

Comfort on Curry Row

by B.A. Nilsson December 21, 2011

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Jewel of India, 187 Lark St., Albany, 512-5600, jewelonlark.com. Serving dinner 11-11 daily, lunch buffet 11-3 daily. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Indian Entrée price range: $8 (chana dal masala, many others) to $15 (tandoor salmon) Ambiance: pleasant ...

Looking Past the Cookies

by B.A. Nilsson December 14, 2011

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Norway needs butter. The country’s consumption of it has increased this year because of a surge in fat-laden, low-carb diets, and last month’s butter demand was up 30 percent over the same period last year. ...

The Comfort of Family

by B.A. Nilsson December 8, 2011

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Minissale’s Wine Cellar Café, 1 14th St, Troy, 274-6225, minissaleswinecellarcafe.com. Serving dinner 5-9 Wed-Thu, 5-10 Fri-Sat, 4-9 Sun. D, MC, V. Cuisine: Italian Entrée price range: $7 (small cheese pizza) to $20 (veal Marsala) Ambiance: your mom’s dining ...

Eastern Swing

by B.A. Nilsson December 1, 2011

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Phila Fusion Asian Restaurant and Bar, 54 Phila St., Saratoga Springs, 226-0400, philafusion.com. Serving lunch 11:30-3 Mon-Sun, dinner 5-10 Sun-Thu, 5-10:30 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: pan-Asian Entrée price range: $12 (noodle soup) to $20 (sea ...

Let’s Do the Time Warp

by B.A. Nilsson November 22, 2011

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Don and Paul’s Coffee Shoppe, 68 Broad St, Waterford, 233-1040. Serving daily 6 AM-9 PM. MC, V. Cuisine: all-American Entrée price range: $1.70 (burger with chips) to $11 (scallops dinner) Ambiance: a little gossip, a little chat If you ...

Bordeaux in the Burbs

by B.A. Nilsson November 16, 2011

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The Epicurean, Latham Farms Mall, 579 Troy-Schenectady Road, Latham, 786-8272, epicurean-ny.com. Serving lunch 11-4 Tue-Sat, dinner 5-9 Tue-Wed, 5-10 Thu-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: French Entrée price range: $12 (Beggar’s Purse with ricotta & prosciutto, small ...

The Real Moussaka

by B.A. Nilsson October 27, 2011

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The Greek House, 27 Third St., Troy, 272-6058, thegreekhouse.net. Serving 11-9 Mon-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Greek Entrée price range: $6.50 (veggie gyro) to $18.50 (grilled marinated lamb shanks) Ambiance: storefront What constitutes authentic? It’s one of the ...

Bakers’ Square

by Amy Halloran October 20, 2011

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On a bright, warm September Sunday, people stroll and shop amid the ring of tents and vendors that constitute the farmers market in the park behind Hubbard Hall in Cambridge. Some of them wander over ...

Under the Tuscan Sunset

by B.A. Nilsson October 13, 2011

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Ca’ Mea Ristorante, 333 Warren St., Hudson, 822-0005, camearestaurant.com. Serving lunch noon-3 Tue-Sun, dinner 5-10 Tue-Sat, 5-9 Sun. AE, MC, D, V Cuisine: Northern Italian Entrée price range: $17 (spinach-ricotta ravioli) to $25 (New York strip) Ambiance: charming, ...

For the Love of a Gadget

by B.A. Nilsson October 6, 2011

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Earlier this year, the BBC aired a TV feature in which Stephen Fry looked at what he considers to be the hundred greatest gadgets ever invented. Not surprisingly, quite a few of them involved the ...

Retro Contemporary

by B.A. Nilsson September 28, 2011

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The Standard, 1 Crossgates Mall Road, Albany, 452-7007, standardalbany.com. Serving 11-11 Sun-Thu, 11-Midnight Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: mix of old and new Entrée price range: $9 (chop-house burger) to $34 (Standard bone-in beef filet) Ambiance: Prefab ...