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Food & Drink

The Redundant Salad

by Ari LeVaux July 2, 2015

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A salad can be many things, from a leafy vegan fiber-fest, to almost anything that contains raw vegetables. The romaine and dandelion-based salad I'm about to show you, in all its greasy, leafy, protein-rich glory, ...

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Small Wonders

by Caroline Barrett June 25, 2015

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  Slidin’ Dirty 9 1st St., Troy, 326-8492. Serving 11-11 Mon-Tue, 11 AM-midnight Wed-Thu, 11 AM-2 AM Fri-Sat, 11-10 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: creative sliders, crispy appetizers, salads Entrée price range: $5 (single slider) to $15 (dirty ...

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What’s Brewing?

by B.A. Nilsson June 18, 2015

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  We’re never far from a cup of coffee, be it an overpriced Starbucks concoction or a cup of diner joe. We do unspeakable things to our coffee, lacing it with flavorings and sweeteners and even ...

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Vietnam Spring

by Caroline Barrett June 11, 2015

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Saigon Pearl 791 Madison Ave., Albany, 451-9251. Serving 11-9 Sun-Tues, Thu; 10-10 Fri-Sat; closed Wednesday. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: fresh Vietnamese Entrée price range: $8 (beef eye round pho) to $14 (grilled salmon with ginger) Ambiance: upscale fast ...

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Summer Outdoor Dining Directory

by The Staff June 6, 2015

  American Angelo’s 677 Prime 677 Broadway, Albany, 427-7463, 677prime.com. Barrington Brewery & Restaurant Jenifer House Commons, 420 Stockbridge Road, Great Barrington, Mass., (413) 528-8282, barringtonbrewery.net. Blu Stone Bistro 661 Albany Shaker Road, Colonie, 869-9976, blustonebistro.com. Boathouse Grille 80 Shady Harbor Drive, New Baltimore, ...

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Slow Boat Cooking

by Ari LeVaux May 28, 2015

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  The question of how far food should travel between where it is produced and where it is consumed has become a frequent matter of passionate debate. The popular rule of thumb is that the more ...

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Dining Guide

by The Staff May 22, 2015

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Afghan Afghan Kabab Express 305 Central Ave., Albany, 487-4159. Kababs and gyros (chicken, lamb or beef), falafel and even burgers and wings are on a menu where sandwiches average $6 and many kababs are $9. Takeout available. ...

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Just Like Homemade

by B.A. Nilsson May 14, 2015

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  Eight at a time. That’s how the sauce jars are filled at Casa Visco. An eerily intelligent electronic eye counts off eight glass jars, typically in 16- or 32-ounce sizes, and regulates the conveyor on ...

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Two For Lunch

by Caroline Barrett May 7, 2015

  My mother is one of the most beautiful women I've ever seen. Her hair is snow white, her eyes are gray and she has cheekbones that sit high and round on smooth, clear skin. When ...

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Splashes of Flavor

by Caroline Barrett May 4, 2015

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  Rain Modern Chinese 259 Lark St., Albany, 729-4827. Serving 11-10 Mon-Thurs, 11-11 Fri-Sat, 11-10 Sun, dim sum 11-4 Sat-Sun. AE, D, MC, V Cuisine: traditional and modern Chinese Entrée price range: $12 (sweet and sour chicken) to $30 ...

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Warming Trend

by Caroline Barrett February 26, 2015

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  Mexican Radio, 325 State St., Schenectady, 621-3700. Serving Sun-Thu 11:30-11, Fri-Sat 11:30 AM-midnight. Sunday brunch 11:30-3. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Mexican Entrée price range: $14 (huevos rancheros) to $20 (Cajun burrito) Ambiance: festively casual Mexican Radio stood, green ...

1 comment Mexican Radio

Good To the Bone

by Ari LeVaux February 20, 2015

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  For longer than there have been kitchens, people have found ways to boil bones. From rural villages to urban restaurants to grandma's house, the virtues of bone stock, and its salted cousin broth, are hardly ...

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Thai to Come Back To

by Caroline Barrett February 12, 2015

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  Delmar Thai Sushi, 155 Delaware Ave, Delmar, 915-1907. Serving Mon-Fri 11:30 AM-3 PM and 4.30 PM-10 PM; Sat noon-10 PM; closed Sunday. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Thai and sushi Entrée price range: $12 (fried rice,  curry ...

Delmar Thai Sushi

Here’s the Beef

by B.A. Nilsson February 5, 2015

Attached: Chef Waldy Malouf preparing to carve the beef.

  Two hours into the event, the lights went out. The glare of spotlights in a rear balcony took over. As the band swung into a rousing processional, the first platter of beef entered the hall, ...

Culinary Institute of America

When the Weather Outside Is Frightening

by B.A. Nilsson January 29, 2015

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  I hit the supermarket on Monday. I wasn’t sure that I needed anything more to get me through the predicted apocalypse, but I felt reluctant to miss a chance to surge through the crowded aisles ...

The Dinner Dance

by Caroline Barrett January 22, 2015

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  Tala American Bistro, 626 New Loudon Road, Latham, 486-8252. Serving lunch 11:30-2:30 Mon-Sat; dinner 5:30-10 Mon-Sat, 4-9 Sunday; brunch 11-3 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: eclectic upscale bistro Entrée price range: $15 (Angus burger) to $38 (Grilled ...

Tala American Bistro

Cuba Libre

by Ari LeVaux January 8, 2015

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  Eleven years ago on New Years Day, I arrived in Cuba with a group of students from the University of Montana in tow. We were there on a hard-to-get educational permit. Our goal was to ...

The Year in Dining

by B.A. Nilsson December 31, 2014

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  It’s not just community support that necessitates the pursuit of locally grown and raised food. It’s the health of it. Try to get a medium-rare burger in any of the chain eateries. Food-service people know ...

The Borscht Ultimatum

by Ari LeVaux December 24, 2014

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  In the dining car at the very end of the train, techno music was pumping as the train rocked its way through the Siberian darkness. The car was half-full of cardboard boxes. At the foot ...

The Gift of Spirits

by Stephen Leon December 18, 2014

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  To get into that holiday spirit, what could be more festive than the gift of spirits? I remember when I first came of age, not just legal drinking age, but the age at which I had ...

Gift Guide: Cookbooks

by B.A. Nilsson December 11, 2014

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  Our God, who art in the living room, flat-screen be Thy name. We flock to wrest possession of them when the shopping fever hits, then structure our time and sensibility around What the TV Tells ...

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Crème de la Crème

by Ari LeVaux December 5, 2014

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  The French didn’t earn a reputation for culinary sensibility by accident. One example that comes to mind this time of year—and one in which eggnog lovers might be especially interested—is the French attitude toward Crème Anglaise. Namely, ...

Leftovers

by The Staff December 4, 2014

  Recently reviewed restaurants. Mohawk Taproom & Grill, 153 Mohawk Ave., Scotia, 357-8005, mohawktaproom.com. The 50/50 burger mixes bacon and beef; also traditional burgers and other pub fare and a great craft beer selection. Serving Tue-Thu 11-10, ...

A Little Bit on the Sides

by B.A. Nilsson November 26, 2014

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  Buttery mashed potatoes. Creamed pearl onions. Sweet potatoes with brown sugar. And butter. And even, heaven help us, marshmallows. Which doesn’t even get us to dessert. Thanksgiving has the impressive ability to swab the most ordinary ...

Try This at Home

by The Staff November 20, 2014

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  Figgy Pudding Ric Orlando, New World Bistro Bar 300 Delaware Ave., Albany, 694 -0520 Serves 8-plus Ingredients: 1¾ cups buttermilk 12 ounces dried Calimyrna figs, coarsely chopped 1½ cups white whole-wheat flour (such as King Arthur®) 1 cup white sugar 2½ teaspoons baking powder 1 ...