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Food & Drink

The Gospel of Table Service

by B.A. Nilsson May 8, 2013

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  The Water’s Edge Lighthouse, 2 Freeman’s Bridge Road, Glenville, 370-5300, thewatersedgelighthouse.com. Serving 11-10 Mon-Fri, 4-10 Sat, 4-9 Sun. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: Italian-flavored continental Entrée price range: $14 (haddock Francaise) to $27 (frutti di mare) Ambiance: handsome Today’s sermon, ...

Into the Fire

by B.A. Nilsson May 2, 2013

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  My first sense that this would be no easy course of training came not when I donned my set of chef’s whites, nor as the chef who would be training me displayed a menu and ...

Public-Access Gourmet

by Amy Halloran May 2, 2013

  “When you’re tying up the carrot, be careful that the cheese doesn’t slip out,” my son Felix said from his highchair. He was about 4 or 5, and we were just done with a Saturday ...

Keeping Your Edge

by B.A. Nilsson April 24, 2013

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  The blade descends to the edge of the tomato and, with little applied pressure, eases through the skin with no resistance, leaving a rich red slice to fall to the cutting board below. It’s one ...

1 comment

Beyond Kebabs

by B.A. Nilsson April 17, 2013

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  Manama Grille, 180 Delaware Ave., Delmar, 478-0800, manamagrille.com. Serving dinner 4:30-10 Tue-Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Persian-edged Middle Eastern Entrée price range: $10 (Manama salad) to $17 (seafood mixed grill) Ambience: well-disguised strip-mall Don’t visit this Persian restaurant ...

Sushi and Social Networking

by B.A. Nilsson April 11, 2013

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  Hibachi X, 1893 Central Ave., Albany, 869-9888, hibachixny.com. Serving lunch 11:30-3 Mon-Fri, dinner 4:30-10:30 Mon-Thu, 4:30-11 Fri, 11:30-11 Sat, noon-10 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: sushi and Japanese steakhouse fare Entrée price range: $17 (five-course hibachi ...

1 comment

Lighter Side of Lenox

by B.A. Nilsson April 4, 2013

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Haven Café and Bakery, 8 Franklin St., Lenox, Mass., 413-637-8948, havencafebakery.com. Serving breakfast 7:30-11:30 Mon-Fri, lunch 11:30-3 Mon-Fri, brunch 8-3 Sat-Sun. D, MC, V. Cuisine: soup-salad-sandwich Entrée price range: $8 (grilled cheese) to $15 (blue cheese burger) Ambiance: ...

Witness to an Albany Century

by B.A. Nilsson March 28, 2013

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The half-dozen, half-shelled oysters perch on the periphery of an ice-filled serving dish, itself shaped like a scallop shell. Horseradish and cocktail sauce, shallot vinegar and lemon wedges wait in the middle, but the first ...

Just Ask Bradley Cooper

by B.A. Nilsson March 20, 2013

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  Ambition Coffee House and Eatery 154 Jay St., Schenectady, 382-9277, ambitionbistro.com. Serving 8-5 Mon-Fri, 10-5 Sat, 9-2 Sun, and until 8 when there are Proctors shows, but call first. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: sandwich-based Entrée price range: ...

Ambition Coffee & Eatery

Table Scraps

by B.A. Nilsson March 20, 2013

  Jasper Alexander of Hattie’s Restaurant, a Saratoga Springs mainstay, has been honored as one of the country’s top chefs in the inaugural edition of the book Best Chefs America. Those included were recommended by fellow ...

Hattie's Restaurant

Readers’ Poll: Food & Drink

by Metroland Staff March 13, 2013

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Best American 1. New World Bistro Bar 2. Five Guys Burgers and Fries 3. The Standard We obviously have a very diverse group of diners in the region. Even so, New World took this easily. Best Italian 1. D’Raymond’s 2. Café Capriccio 3. ...

23 comments

Corned Beef and Beyond

by B.A. Nilsson March 13, 2013

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Helmbold’s Market, 12 Industrial Park Road, Troy, 273-0810, ext. 109, pastramiandcornedbeef.com. Open 11-6 Tue-Fri, 9-2 Sat. AE, D, MC, V. They’re at the peak of corned-beef craziness right now, so busy churning out our favorite St. ...

The Old School Works

by B.A. Nilsson March 6, 2013

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Ralph’s Tavern, 1328 Central Ave., Colonie, 489-8290, ralphstaverninc.com. Serving 11-midnight Mon-Thu, 11 AM-2 AM Fri-Sat, noon-midnight Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Italian-American Entrée price range: $6 (burger) to $19 (full rack of ribs) Ambiance: neighborhood tavern Did we ...

A Nice Rack

by B.A. Nilsson February 28, 2013

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Tex’s Pig Pit, 1 Niver St., Cohoes, 235-2424, pigpitbbq.com. Serving 11-8 Mon-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: barbecue and Mexican Entrée price range: $5 (BBQ blankets) to $23 (full rack of ribs dinner) Ambiance: rustic Transplanted Texan David Frazier ...

1 comment

A Sort of Homecoming

by Laura Leon February 21, 2013

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The Brick House, 425 Park St., Housatonic, Mass., (413) 274-0020, brickhousema.com. Serving dinner 4-9 Sun-Thu, 4-10 Fri-Sat; lunch from 11:30 Sat-Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: hearty pub fare Entrée price range: $10 (grilled cheese and fries ...

The Exceptional Ordinary

by Laura Leon February 14, 2013

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The Skyline Diner, 314 Columbia St., Rensselaer, 434-0233. Serving breakfast, lunch and early dinner 7-3 daily. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: American diner fare Entrée price range: $4.49 (All American Hamburger) to $9.69 (Fried Haddock Dinner) Ambiance: unassuming ...

1 comment

Why Aren’t You Planning Your Next Dinner Party?

by Laura Leon February 7, 2013

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When I was a teenager, my sister Pamela lived in a studio apartment in New York City. When her fiancé was out of town, I’d often visit for extended periods of time. I remember days ...

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On Flavor’s Wings

by B.A. Nilsson January 31, 2013

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Kinnaree, 193 Lark St., Albany, 813-4944, kinnareeonlark.com. Serving lunch 11:30-3:30 Mon-Fri, dinner 3:30-10 Mon-Fri, 11:30-10 Sat-Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Korean-Thai-Japanese Entrée price range: $10 (beef dumpling soup) to $18 (deep-fried half duck with red curry ...

Wedding Guide: Marriage, Remembered

by Darryl McGrath January 31, 2013

  My family history is populated by plenty of strong-willed women, but my grandmothers really stand out in this notable array of pioneers, artisans and survivors. My maternal grandmother was a Midwestern Methodist born on a Missouri ...

Wedding Guide: Outside the Church

by Shawn Stone January 31, 2013

  Growing up, I attended a lot of weddings because I have a lot of cousins. And all of these ceremonies were in churches. Each Spring from age 5 to 18, I endured one ceremony after ...

Dr. Reuben Will See You

by B.A. Nilsson January 24, 2013

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The Rustic Gourmet, 785 Delaware Ave., Delmar, 439-0900, the-rustic-gourmet.com. Serving lunch 11-4 Mon-Fri, dinner 4-8 Mon-Fri. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: sandwiches, soups, special entrées Entrée price range: $5 (soup or small sandwich) to $12.50 (meatloaf) Ambiance: elegant ...

1 comment

A Fine Flagon

by B.A. Nilsson January 17, 2013

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The Bier Abbey, 613 Union St., Schenectady, 388-8597, thebierabbey.com. Serving noon-midnight Mon-Thu, noon-2 AM Fri-Sat, 11:30 AM-9 PM Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: homemade pub fare Entrée price range: $7.50 (burger) to $17.50 (steak frites) Ambiance: pubnacious Nothing ...

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My Kitchen, Our Living Room

by Sarah Sherman January 10, 2013

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More than 30 years ago, before Rosanna Bongiorno became one of Albany’s best-kept dining secrets, she was a mother of two focused on her job at a local newspaper and raising her family. She never ...

Eating Around

by B.A. Nilsson January 3, 2013

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What with the orgy of eating that typically comprises my days and weeks, it’s something of a shock to be reminded that I wrote about fewer than 50 of those meals over the past 12 ...

A Simple Proposition

by B.A. Nilsson December 27, 2012

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Local Burger, 16 Main St., Northampton, Mass., 413-586-5857, localnorthampton.com. Serving 11:30-10 Sun-Thu, 11:30 AM-3 AM Fri-Sat. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: local burgers Entrée price range: $5 (portobello burger) to $10 (burger with pretty much everything) Ambiance: trendy hole ...

4 comments