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Food & Drink

Bad Food, Good Food

by Amy Halloran August 7, 2013

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  Foods fall in and out of favor, spun on the wheel of nutritional roulette. Name your villain: salt, fat, red meat, and now, thanks to arsenic traces, even rice. Carbs came under fire in the early ...

3 comments

Blue All Over

by Amy Halloran August 1, 2013

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  “Here’s a dragonfly for you, come see,” a grandmother called to her granddaughter in Schuylerville at the Winney Farm. The family was picking blueberries on a bright Wednesday morning. The sun was hot but not ...

In the Pot

by B.A. Nilsson July 31, 2013

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  Shining Rainbow Restaurant, 209 Central Ave., Albany, 396-3881, shiningrainbow.com. Serving 11-10:30 Sun-Thu, 11-11 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Chinese and Japanese Entrée price range: $7.50 (broccoli with garlic sauce) to $17 (Beijing duck) Ambiance: small but comfortable Szechuan ...

Best of Food

by The Staff July 24, 2013

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  Best Restaurant Café Capriccio 49 Grand St., Albany A year-after-year choice that pleases us with its ineffable rightness. Along with its northern sibling, Capriccio Saratoga, we marvel at the culinary skill of chef Franco Rua as he continues ...

2 comments

Adventures in Taste

by B.A. Nilsson July 18, 2013

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Two types of fancy foods dominate the Fancy Food Show: stuff you can make and stuff you can’t (or shouldn’t). In the former category are items that require creativity, like sauces and pastries; the latter ...

1 comment

Family By Any Name

by B.A. Nilsson July 10, 2013

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  155 Delaware Ave., Delmar, 475-7777, mercatosrestaurant.com. Serving lunch 11:30-2:30 daily, dinner 2:30-9. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: traditional Italian Entrée price range: $11 (pasta with marinara) to $19 (haddock gorgonzola) Ambiance: traditional Italian It’s an unlikely enough story to ...

1 comment Mercato’s Pizzeria and Restaurant

Molto Hip

by B.A. Nilsson July 3, 2013

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Mission Bar + Tapas, 438 North St., Pittsfield, Mass., no phone, missionbarandtapas.com. Open daily noon-midnight, Sunday brunch at unspecified hours. Accepts credit cards. Cuisine: American tapas Entrée price range: $7 (chicken croquettes) to $15 (cider-glazed pork ribs) Ambiance: ...

Fine Dining as Theater

by B.A. Nilsson June 26, 2013

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  The Bocuse Restaurant, Culinary Institute of America, 1946 Campus Dr., Hyde Park, 845-471-6608, ciarestaurants.com. Serving lunch 11:30–1 Tue-Sat (when classes are in session), dinner 6–8:30 Tue-Sat (ditto). AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: contemporary French-inspired Entrée price range: ...

1 comment

Mission Accomplished

by B.A. Nilsson June 13, 2013

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  Cella Bistro, 2015 Rosa Road, Schenectady, 381-2080, cellabistro.com. Serving dinner 5-9 Tue-Thu, 5-10 Fri-Sat. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: Italian-flavored continental Entrée price range: $20 (pasta Bolognese) to $28 (duck breast), plus lower-priced tapas Ambiance: casual and intimate The two ...

Grunt Work

by B.A. Nilsson June 5, 2013

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  There’s a primal satisfaction in a meal of smoked meats. Your ribs, your brisket, your pulled pork—such Deep South staples have at last fully infiltrated the North, if the local efflorescence of barbecue joints is ...

1 comment

More Than a Buzzword

by Amy Halloran June 5, 2013

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  There’s a commercial that makes a supermarket seem as enticing as a day at the beach. The produce is glamorously lit and the shopper is invited to dream of dinner as if each meal is ...

3 comments

Choice Cuts

by Amy Halloran May 29, 2013

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  In the walk-in cooler, eight sides of lamb hang on a sturdy metal cart. The split carcasses almost look like heavy dresses, ready for a seamstress to hem. Or maybe this comparison is just the ...

Korean Bridge

by B.A. Nilsson May 29, 2013

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  Kabuki Korean Restaurant, 952 Troy-Schenectady Road (Peter Harris Plaza), Latham, 782-9609. Serving 11-9:30 Mon-Sat, 3-9:30 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Korean Entrée price range: $11 (grilled pork dumplings) to $17 (stir-fried squid with pork loin) Ambiance: strip-mall ...

Mansion Hill Makeover

by B.A. Nilsson May 22, 2013

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  Betty Boop’s Diner, 115 Philip St., Albany, 545-5396, bettyboopsalbany.com. Serving 8-9 Tue-Sat, 8-3 Sun. D, MC, V. Cuisine: diner fare Entrée price range: $6 (turkey burger) to $13 (pork chops dinner) Ambiance: casual and friendly “My wife was wearing ...

Champagne on the Park 2013

by Erin Pihlaja May 15, 2013

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Who doesn't love tulips and champagne? Maybe a select group of people, but many other people do like anything and everything that has to do with legally drinking in Washington Park, local food, and improving ...

Troy Vision

by B.A. Nilsson May 15, 2013

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  Charles F. Lucas Confectionery & Wine Bar, 12 2nd St, Troy, 326-3450, lucasconfectionery.wordpress.com. Serving 4-11 Mon-Thu, 4-midnight Fri-Sat, noon-9 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: wine and cheese and charcuterie Entrée price range: $5 (selected small bite ...

The Gospel of Table Service

by B.A. Nilsson May 8, 2013

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  The Water’s Edge Lighthouse, 2 Freeman’s Bridge Road, Glenville, 370-5300, thewatersedgelighthouse.com. Serving 11-10 Mon-Fri, 4-10 Sat, 4-9 Sun. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: Italian-flavored continental Entrée price range: $14 (haddock Francaise) to $27 (frutti di mare) Ambiance: handsome Today’s sermon, ...

Into the Fire

by B.A. Nilsson May 2, 2013

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  My first sense that this would be no easy course of training came not when I donned my set of chef’s whites, nor as the chef who would be training me displayed a menu and ...

Public-Access Gourmet

by Amy Halloran May 2, 2013

  “When you’re tying up the carrot, be careful that the cheese doesn’t slip out,” my son Felix said from his highchair. He was about 4 or 5, and we were just done with a Saturday ...

Keeping Your Edge

by B.A. Nilsson April 24, 2013

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  The blade descends to the edge of the tomato and, with little applied pressure, eases through the skin with no resistance, leaving a rich red slice to fall to the cutting board below. It’s one ...

1 comment

Beyond Kebabs

by B.A. Nilsson April 17, 2013

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  Manama Grille, 180 Delaware Ave., Delmar, 478-0800, manamagrille.com. Serving dinner 4:30-10 Tue-Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Persian-edged Middle Eastern Entrée price range: $10 (Manama salad) to $17 (seafood mixed grill) Ambience: well-disguised strip-mall Don’t visit this Persian restaurant ...

Sushi and Social Networking

by B.A. Nilsson April 11, 2013

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  Hibachi X, 1893 Central Ave., Albany, 869-9888, hibachixny.com. Serving lunch 11:30-3 Mon-Fri, dinner 4:30-10:30 Mon-Thu, 4:30-11 Fri, 11:30-11 Sat, noon-10 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: sushi and Japanese steakhouse fare Entrée price range: $17 (five-course hibachi ...

1 comment

Lighter Side of Lenox

by B.A. Nilsson April 4, 2013

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Haven Café and Bakery, 8 Franklin St., Lenox, Mass., 413-637-8948, havencafebakery.com. Serving breakfast 7:30-11:30 Mon-Fri, lunch 11:30-3 Mon-Fri, brunch 8-3 Sat-Sun. D, MC, V. Cuisine: soup-salad-sandwich Entrée price range: $8 (grilled cheese) to $15 (blue cheese burger) Ambiance: ...

Witness to an Albany Century

by B.A. Nilsson March 28, 2013

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The half-dozen, half-shelled oysters perch on the periphery of an ice-filled serving dish, itself shaped like a scallop shell. Horseradish and cocktail sauce, shallot vinegar and lemon wedges wait in the middle, but the first ...

Just Ask Bradley Cooper

by B.A. Nilsson March 20, 2013

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  Ambition Coffee House and Eatery 154 Jay St., Schenectady, 382-9277, ambitionbistro.com. Serving 8-5 Mon-Fri, 10-5 Sat, 9-2 Sun, and until 8 when there are Proctors shows, but call first. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: sandwich-based Entrée price range: ...

Ambition Coffee & Eatery