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Food & Drink

A Tale of Two Capriccios

by B.A. Nilsson March 29, 2012

From the start, Capriccio Saratoga was envisioned as the Southern Italian counterpart to its sister establishment, Albany’s Café Capriccio. The Saratoga Springs eatery opened last summer just as that city’s racetrack madness roared to life, ...

Sushi Rendezvous

by B.A. Nilsson March 22, 2012

Mr. Fuji, Stuyvesant Plaza, 1475 Western Ave., Albany, 269-3999, mrfujisushi.com. Serving lunch 11-3 Mon-Fri, dinner 3-10:30 Mon-Thu, 3-11 Fri, 11-11 Sat, noon-10 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Japanese Entrée price range: $9.50 (zaru soba) to $30.50 ...

Brisket Heaven

by B.A. Nilsson March 15, 2012

The line on the sidewalk outside of Schwartz’s Delicatessen stretched for half a block, peopled two or three abreast. It was five o’clock on a Saturday afternoon. “They line up like this even when it ...

Sunday Special

by B.A. Nilsson March 8, 2012

Schenectady Greenmarket, Proctors, 432 State St., Schenectady, schenectadygreenmarket.org. Open 10-2 Sunday. Cash is most reliable. Through April 29. I went looking for root vegetables and a loaf of bread. I found the greatest Sunday brunch venue ...

Serving the Neighborhood

by B.A. Nilsson March 1, 2012

The Ugly Rooster Café, 159 North Main St., Mechanicville, 664-2769, uglyroostercafe.com. Serving breakfast and lunch 6-3 Mon-Fri, 7-3 Sat-Sun. MC, V. Cuisine: from-scratch diner Entrée price range: $3.25 (two eggs with home fries and toast) to $7.25 ...

Homegrown and Self-Taught

by B.A. Nilsson February 23, 2012

The Hungry Fish, 461 Main Ave., Wynantskill, 874-4573, thehungryfishcafe.com. Serving breakfast and lunch 8-8 Mon-Sat, 8-3 Sun; dinner 4-8 Thu-Sat. MC, V. Cuisine: lunchroom eclectic Entrée price range: $5 (egg and cheese on a hard roll) to ...

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Farewell to an Albany Icon

by Amy Halloran February 16, 2012

Last Wednesday morning, the Miss Albany Diner was two days shy of closing—and slammed. People packed in like sardines at the counter, and the wait staff steered plates around winter coats that puffed out from ...

No Membership Necessary

by B.A. Nilsson February 9, 2012

Grille One Six Five at the Normanside Country Club, 150 Salisbury Road, Delmar, 439-4505 ext. 19, normanside.com. Serving lunch 11-3 Tue-Sun, dinner 3-8 Tue-Thu, 3-9 Fri-Sat, 3-6 Sun. AE, MC, V. Cuisine: thoughtful continental Entrée price range: ...

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A Secret Worth Sharing

by B.A. Nilsson February 2, 2012

Peter Pause Restaurant, 535 Nott St., Schenectady, 382-9278. Serving breakfast and lunch 6-2 Mon-Fri. Cash only. Cuisine: Italian diner Entrée price range: $2 (single pancake) to $9 (antipasto) Ambiance: homey “You live in Schenectady and you don’t know Peter ...

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The American Mexican

by B.A. Nilsson January 25, 2012

La Fiesta, 1610 Central Ave., Albany, 482-3940, lafiestamexican.com. Serving lunch 11-3 Mon-Sat, noon-3 Sun, dinner 11-9 Mon-Wed, 11-10 Thu-Sat, noon-9 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Mexican-American Entrée price range: $7.75 (grilled chicken salad) to $17 (fajitas ...

Patties on Parade

by B.A. Nilsson January 19, 2012

Who first served the sandwich of cooked ground beef on a bun? Plenty of claimants vie for the title. Although the idea of serving chopped, seasoned meat products has a basis in Germany’s Hamburg, here ...

It’s in the Broth

by B.A. Nilsson January 12, 2012

Phơ Yum, 1558 Central Ave., Albany, 869-9866, pho-yum.com. Serving 11-9:30 Tue-Thu, 11-10 Fri-Sat, 11-9 Sun. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Vietnamese Entrée price range: $6.25 (bánh mì, a sandwich) to $10 (phơ with three meats) Ambiance: spartan Some form ...

The Edible 2011

by B.A. Nilsson January 5, 2012

The challenge of putting together a series of restaurant reviews lies in presenting a series of places that vary in location, ethnicity and price. Put an endless succession of high-priced places in front of you ...

Eat, Drink, and Support Your Neighbor

by The Staff December 29, 2011

Ted Dobson of Equinox Farm in Sheffield, Mass., is one of many growers who, along with local chefs and markets, have benefited from the closely knit food community in Berkshire County. Produce from Denison Farm has ...

Comfort on Curry Row

by B.A. Nilsson December 21, 2011

Jewel of India, 187 Lark St., Albany, 512-5600, jewelonlark.com. Serving dinner 11-11 daily, lunch buffet 11-3 daily. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Indian Entrée price range: $8 (chana dal masala, many others) to $15 (tandoor salmon) Ambiance: pleasant ...

Looking Past the Cookies

by B.A. Nilsson December 14, 2011

Norway needs butter. The country’s consumption of it has increased this year because of a surge in fat-laden, low-carb diets, and last month’s butter demand was up 30 percent over the same period last year. ...

The Comfort of Family

by B.A. Nilsson December 8, 2011

Minissale’s Wine Cellar Café, 1 14th St, Troy, 274-6225, minissaleswinecellarcafe.com. Serving dinner 5-9 Wed-Thu, 5-10 Fri-Sat, 4-9 Sun. D, MC, V. Cuisine: Italian Entrée price range: $7 (small cheese pizza) to $20 (veal Marsala) Ambiance: your mom’s dining ...

Eastern Swing

by B.A. Nilsson December 1, 2011

Phila Fusion Asian Restaurant and Bar, 54 Phila St., Saratoga Springs, 226-0400, philafusion.com. Serving lunch 11:30-3 Mon-Sun, dinner 5-10 Sun-Thu, 5-10:30 Fri-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: pan-Asian Entrée price range: $12 (noodle soup) to $20 (sea ...

Let’s Do the Time Warp

by B.A. Nilsson November 22, 2011

Don and Paul’s Coffee Shoppe, 68 Broad St, Waterford, 233-1040. Serving daily 6 AM-9 PM. MC, V. Cuisine: all-American Entrée price range: $1.70 (burger with chips) to $11 (scallops dinner) Ambiance: a little gossip, a little chat If you ...

Bordeaux in the Burbs

by B.A. Nilsson November 16, 2011

The Epicurean, Latham Farms Mall, 579 Troy-Schenectady Road, Latham, 786-8272, epicurean-ny.com. Serving lunch 11-4 Tue-Sat, dinner 5-9 Tue-Wed, 5-10 Thu-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: French Entrée price range: $12 (Beggar’s Purse with ricotta & prosciutto, small ...

Talking Turkey

by B.A. Nilsson November 10, 2011

Since trying long ago to cock a snoot at Thanksgiving tradition, I have evolved over the past 20 years a tradition of gathering with 15 to 20 friends, most of them orphaned of extended family ...

Over the River and Through My Life

by Amy Halloran November 10, 2011

Thanksgiving is glued to America as surely as baseball and apple pie. Even if you feel uncomfortable about celebrating a mythical meal that represents the appropriation of the better part of a continent, you’ll likely ...

Holiday Entertaining

by The Staff November 10, 2011

Sweet Potato-Andouille Soup Kenneth Ruud, Grille One Six Five Normanside Country Club, 150 Salisbury Road, 439-2117 2 Tbsp. oil 1/2 cup onions, diced 2 links andouille sausage, diced 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and diced 4 cups chicken stock 3/4 cup heavy cream 1/2 Tbsp. ...

Road to Morocco

by B.A. Nilsson November 3, 2011

Days are shorter, nights are colder: It’s root vegetable season. It’s time to spend a little longer in the kitchen. I’ve been spending more time with earthenware cookers, in particular one of the most marvelous ...

The Real Moussaka

by B.A. Nilsson October 27, 2011

The Greek House, 27 Third St., Troy, 272-6058, thegreekhouse.net. Serving 11-9 Mon-Sat. AE, D, MC, V. Cuisine: Greek Entrée price range: $6.50 (veggie gyro) to $18.50 (grilled marinated lamb shanks) Ambiance: storefront What constitutes authentic? It’s one of the ...

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